long time lurker question (sharpening turning tools)

[John Daugherty]

Hello everyone,

I am a longtime lurker at SMC and I have learned a ton of “stuff” from this place. The woodworking talent and diversity here is truly inspirational. I have yet to see a question that could not be answered.

It is due to my many visits here that I made the mistake of getting a JET mini. This was the first time I ever touched a lathe in my life. I have since turned a few pens and for some reason I can't stop. This stupid thing is so addictive.

I do have a question however. I know that sharp turning tools are very important to the process (learned it here). My question is how sharp is sharp enough? Is it chisel I can see my reflection, slice my finger off with one slip sharp. Or is it just cut myself to the bone sharp.

I have an 8” grinder with a 120 grit white stone and have picked up the wolverine jig for my turning tools.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Welcome to the 'Creek John! Say you must have got the "spinny" thing from another website! Don't listen to John M. or Tyler or Jim B. ...........the world is flat! Because of my previously stated convictions and the fact that I've never used a lathe....I couldn't answer your question. but.....again......Welcome!

[Cecil Arnold]

While I am not an expert turner by any means, if you are using the Wolverene all you need to do is lightly dress your tools on the 120 gr. wheel and you should be ready to go. I turn Mesquete (sp?) and find it hard on tools due to a high silicone content, but a quick trip to the BG and the shavings fly.

[Brad Schmid]

Welcome John, glad you jumped in!

As far as sharpening, you have a good system with the Wolverine and 8" grinder. Assuming you've mastered the bevel angles, I will suggest an additional step, which is honing. I happen to use DMT diamond hones (cone ~$25 for gouge flute, flat ~$9/grit for bevel). You will notice a difference and it doesn't take any more than about 10-15 seconds to do it. The whole process done properly, you will be very satisfied. With practice, you'll be able to leave the lathe, sharpen a tool and be back turning in under 60 seconds, literally.

BTW - I know you were speeking metaphorically, but please don't cut your finger off, or to the bone. I get squeemish when I even think about it
Living flesh is never a good test platform

Cheers

[Steven Wilson]

I use a Wolverine system on a dry grinder as well as the Tormek. For what its worth I prefer the edge off of the Tormek. If you're just using the Wolverine system then I would also periodically hone the inside of your flutes and either strop or further hone your skew prior to taking final cuts. A little work on your edges can save a lot of sanding.

[Bob Hovde]

John,

Even with an 8" wheel, there is a slight concave curve to the bevel. A couple of quick runs across a hard stone will sharpen it up again. After using the stone for a while, it's back to the grinder. I'm new to turning, but I haven't noticed much help from honing the inside, like I do for my carving tools.

Bob

[keith zimmerman]

I also use the wolverine system. I also use my gouges straight off a 120 white wheel. I think honing a gouge is a waste of time because that edge IS going to be dull again very shortly. I feel they are extremely sharp and they cut the wood like butter. When the gouge gets dull, I just head to the grinder and have the edge ready to go in 5-10 seconds.

This is what works for me. Others mileage may differ.

keithz

[John Daugherty]

Thanks for the info.

One follow-up question however. What is the difference between the different brands of turning tools? Say the sorby and the crown for example.

thanks again