Shop Floor

[Kris Bjarnason]

We are moving to a new house next week which has a dedicated shop! However, the previous owner didn't use it as a shop, so I have some prep work to do. The floor is just a raw concrete slab. How many of you recommend covering it in an epoxy? I have never done this, but it sounds like a lot of prep work would be involved as far as cleaning, applying, sealing, etc? What are the benefits of doing all this, and is it worth it?

Thanks!

[Clay Crocker]

Kris,

I have coated my last two shop floors, the first was with a one part concrete "stain", my current shop I coated with a two part, solvent based epoxy. The solvent based epoxy is far superior to the one part stain I used previously. The stain lifted off the concrete wherever I parked a stationary tool with rubber bottomed levelers and then moved later. The stain was easy to scratch off too if I was not careful. The epoxy I used seems to be bullet proof, no lifting or scratching problems in 2-1/2 years.

The floor coating makes the floor much easier to keep clean, sweeping up saw dust is a breeze. I used a light gray color which helps with light distribution. If you decide to coat your floor then proper preparation is the key IMHO. If you don't want to put the work into the prep, then I would not bother coating the floor.

Clay

[Frank Trinkle]

Home Depot and Lowes sell total kits that include the prep and the epoxy paints all in one. From what I've been told and reading... the two-part epoxy paint is far superior to the no-mix.

Getting ready to do the same with my garage floor. I'll have to do it in two runs... half and half due to the amount of crap I have in the garage that can't be left outside!

Good luck.

[Kris Bjarnason]

Thanks for the input, sounds like it's worth the work that goes into it. Would the following link be the two-part epoxy you're both referring to?

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...020&lpage=none

[Clay Crocker]

This is what I used:

http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp...ct_id=59&SBL=1

This is the solvent based version, they make a water based version that is easier to find, but based on my research at the time the solvent based epoxy is more durable.

Clay

[Jeff Monson]

I'd like to throw in my .02, the prep work is not hard, just go to menards and get a couple gallons of muratic acid, (I may be wrong on the type) but its a weak acid and comes in gallons for about $4 per gallon. I mixed mine on the strong side and broomed it on the cement and then rinsed with a garden hose, let it dry (time will vary with drying conditions) mine dried within 24 hours and make sure if you have any cracks in the cement that they are dry also, no dark colored cement or its not dry!!

I have used the borg kit from menards I believe its rustoleum, its not nearly as durable as a quality paint store will sell you. I have my garage floor and some of the floor in my auto repair shop done in a 2 part epoxy made by devoe paint. I bought the product at a local paint store, it is a 2 part product also and there is no comparison as to the quality of this versus the rustoleum kit. I have the rustoleum in my wood shop and it chips and scratches way easier.

Its a job you will only do one time and do it right. The devoe product cost me right in the 70$ range for each kit (1 gallon of paint and 1 gallon of hardener) and it took 2 kits for a 24x24 garage.

[David Hostetler]

If it's not too expensive materials wise, I would lay down some 1x tongue & groove to soften up that concrete floor a bit... Makes standing on it MUCH more pleasant...

[Ken Werner]

David just beat me to it. I also suggest you reconsider your efforts for epoxy and think of a wood floor. I did my 388 sq foot shop in pine planks. It's so much easier on the feet, the eye and especially the tools which meet it. Just my $.02.

[Tom Hamilton]

You might consider a wood shop floor. FWW had and article about how to do this in 2000.

Search the FWW site for the link or send me a PM and I'll send the PDF.

The short story is 6 mil poly overlapped 12 inches and taped. 2X4 PT stringers on 16 inch centers covered by 3/4 ply Tongue and groove sub floor. I coated mine with BLO and Poly. Every six months or so I swab on another coat of poly. Makes the 36 inch wide gym mop glide over the floor.

Easy on the feet and knees. And easy on the sharp objects that happen to hit the floor.

Best regards, Tom

[Dan Friedrichs]

I'd like to throw in my .02, the prep work is not hard, just go to menards and get a couple gallons of muratic acid, (I may be wrong on the type) but its a weak acid and comes in gallons for about $4 per gallon. I mixed mine on the strong side...

Weak acid?! Muratic acid is usually 30% hydrochloric acid diluted in water. Personally, I'm astounded that anybody can walk into a hardware store and buy this stuff. The point is that you're etching cement with it.

I know of a gentleman who was using it to clean his pool. Burned one of his fingers severely enough that it became infected and had to be amputated.

This is not just a "Aw shucks - just slosh it on and rinse it off" kind of project (or at least, it shouldn't be!)...

[Ben Franz]

FWIW I like the idea of a GOOD epoxy coating on the floor for ease of cleanup and dust control. I don't recommend the cheap one-part systems sold at the BORG - I tried it last summer and the coating is fragile - scratches easily and was actually lifted off by a piece of duct tape. I followed all the steps - cleaning, etching, special primer, two thin coats. I think the specialty products that are 2-part, solvent based are much better. Search the archives for several related threads.

[Don Eddard]

I'm happy with the Rustoleum 2-part epoxy on my shop floor, but be aware it gets slippery with a layer of sawdust on it. Even with the paint chip sprinkles added, it's slick enough to make you pay attention.

I would still use in on the next shop, if the next shop doesn't have a wood floor.

[David Weiser]

Just my personal opinion, but I think a wood floor in a shop looks very elegant. Almost makes your stationary tools look like furniture!

[Clay Crocker]

Weak acid?! Muratic acid is usually 30% hydrochloric acid diluted in water. Personally, I'm astounded that anybody can walk into a hardware store and buy this stuff. The point is that you're etching cement with it.

I know of a gentleman who was using it to clean his pool. Burned one of his fingers severely enough that it became infected and had to be amputated.

This is not just a "Aw shucks - just slosh it on and rinse it off" kind of project (or at least, it shouldn't be!)...

Dan,

Thanks for saying what I was thinking! Hydrochloric acid is dangerous stuff if not handled properly. Describing it as a "weak acid" is misleading to anyone who does not have a basic understanding of chemistry. (Sorry, no pun intended in that last sentence.)

Clay

[Don Bullock]

Just my personal opinion, but I think a wood floor in a shop looks very elegant. Almost makes your stationary tools look like furniture!

David, I fully agree with that statement and would love to have a wood floor in my shop. Unfortunately the cost right now is far too high for that at least for me. I've been studying all the alternatives and have decided to use the Quikrete product that is carried by Lowe's . It can be tinted in a wide range of colors (not just the gray and tan shown on their website). BTW -- Here in Southern California the solvent based epoxy in unavailable to homeowners.