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Thread: Motor temprature

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    Lemont Illinois
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    Motor temprature

    What should a 3 hp motor temp be on an Oneida system?
    Mine gets to 140 degrees in 30 minutes???????

    Something is not right , yes will also be calling Oneida?? this is with the 15" impellar same as the 5 hp this could be the issue

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Stoffels View Post
    What should a 3 hp motor temp be on an Oneida system?
    Mine gets to 140 degrees in 30 minutes???????

    Something is not right , yes will also be calling Oneida?? this is with the 15" impellar same as the 5 hp this could be the issue
    I presume that you're measuring in Fahrenheit?

    If so, that should be fine.

    The motor is the only one in your shop that runs at full load, so it gets warm.

    Measure your motor current if you're concerned, check it with all the blast gates open.

    If your motor current is equal to or lower than the motor nameplate rating, you're fine.

    Regards, Rod.

  3. #3
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    The old maintenance-man trick for checking temp...

    ..on a motor is to hover your open palm near the outer shell (frame) and slowly lower it to touch... if it doesn't feel super hot. If you can hold your hand on it without feeling like you are going to burn your hand, it is not too hot. Most people can comfortably hold their hand on a 145 degree (F) motor frame -which is a fairly normal max motor temperature.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Kodak, TN
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    746
    Bill,

    I had the same question when I got my 3HP Gorilla. I wrote Onieda and e-mail and this was there answer.

    Mr. Eller,

    My name is Andy Calenzo and I am an engineer here at Oneida Air Systems. We received your 12/15/07 email (I have inserted a copy below) and this is our reply.
    Regarding the temperature of your motor after it ran for the 45 minute time period as the dust collector was removing dust from the drum sander, this 'very warm to the touch' motor outer case temperature is to be considered normal. Because your motor is a TEFC - Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled where the solid motor case prevents cooling air from passing directly over the motor winding (this is what would occur with an Open Dripproof motor), its only mechanism for the transfer of heat out of the windings is by conduction/convection to the motor case which is a heat sink of sorts. Knowing that the TEFC motor by design will run hot, Baldor's engineers normally specify Class F insulation (Class F insulation has a maximum temperature rating of 311 degree F) for all their TEFC motors. This high quality Class F electrical insulation that Baldor uses in the construction of their TEFC motors allows them to run for many many years of trouble free use. The original reason that the TEFC design came about is because the internal components of single phase motors don't like to be exposed to dirt and dust contaminants. Things like the bearings, the centrifugal switch and the winding(s) will fail prematurely if they see large amounts of dirt/dust. This is why even though a TEFC motor runs hotter, they are generally more reliable than an open drip proof.

    Best Regards,
    Andy Calenzo
    Oneida Air Systems


    Since then I have just ignored it and it has never been a problem.

    Hope this helps.

    Jim

  5. #5
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    Mar 2006
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    Lemont Illinois
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    Thanks to all of you

    really appreciate this post, you have helped me a lot,
    Greatly appreciate it
    Bill

  6. #6
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    An old railroad trainman's *trick* is to NEVER place our hand on a suspected HOT ROLLER BEARING of a railroad car wheel. We use a Tempilstik which makes a chalky mark which turns *liquid* at a predetermined temperature! Tempilstiks are made in many temp. variations. Get a 200 deg.F stik and feel safe as long as your motor is covered with *chalk* with no *melting*!
    http://www.amazon.com/TEMPIL-TS0200-...8700657&sr=1-6
    [/SIGPIC]Necessisity is the Mother of Invention, But If it Ain't Broke don't Fix It !!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chip Lindley View Post
    An old railroad trainman's *trick* is to NEVER place our hand on a suspected HOT ROLLER BEARING of a railroad car wheel. We use a Tempilstik which makes a chalky mark which turns *liquid* at a predetermined temperature! Tempilstiks are made in many temp. variations. Get a 200 deg.F stik and feel safe as long as your motor is covered with *chalk* with no *melting*!
    http://www.amazon.com/TEMPIL-TS0200-...8700657&sr=1-6

    Really? I always thought that there was a conversion chart to correlate the pitch of the scream to temperature!

    Regards, Rod.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Lemont Illinois
    Posts
    113

    motor temp

    did some checking and borrowed an accurate "within 1 degree " temp gage. the motor temp peaked at 134 degrees after about 45 minutes , ran it for another 1 hour 15 min and there was no change
    So it seemed a lot hotter than I thought .
    Info for others.
    I have no issues running it all day long now

    Thanks for everyones help

    Bill

  9. #9
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    Nov 2007
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    Oh No No! Any employee who would stupidly burn himself in such a manner would be subject to DISMISSAL! On the RR there is a RULE for EVERYTHING! Pffttt...
    [/SIGPIC]Necessisity is the Mother of Invention, But If it Ain't Broke don't Fix It !!

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