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Thread: Radial Arm Saw

  1. #1

    Radial Arm Saw

    How many of you have a Radial Arm Saw? I'm new to woodworking so my tool collection is small at this point, one tool which is not in my collection be the Radial Arm Saw. I am happy with what I've got so far, and running out of room in the garage, though. I keep a watchful eye on Craigslist for the AZ area, in fact, most of my woodworking tools have been purchased there. I see a lot of ads for older model Craftsman Radial Arm Saws. I've been thinking about getting one if I find the right deal on Craigslist. I'm wondering if this is a tool I will truly use though. My TS3650 serves me quite well for everything so far, so the Radial Arm Saw would definitely be a luxury item, money that could be used on clamps or other useful items as well. Are the Radial Arm Saws really worth the money? Are the older craftsman models any good? It will be a while before I purchase anything else tool wise, but I like to get a jump start on my research and answer any lingering questions I have well in advance. Thanks for the input.


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    West Lafayette, IN
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    You'll find a lot of information on here about RASs. Give the search function a try and you'll find more than you need to know!

    FWIW, I have one of those older C'man RAS and it's okay for rough crosscutting but that's about it. Even a little nudge of the table and it's out of whack too much for FWWing.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    Kansas City, MO
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    I find that it is better to but a tool when I need it and not when I see it. I don't follow my own rule all of the time, but I don't have any tools that I don't use. If you are going to buy a radial arm (and I like them) lean towards the older DeWalt cast iron arm versions.

  4. #4
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    I am sure you will get conflicting opinions but I don't have a RAS and can't remember ever saying to myself that I wish I had one. On a couple of occasions I wished I had a SCMS instead of just a CMS but never saw the need for a RAS.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
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    Water Park Capital of the World
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    I would have to agree with Chuck about the older DeWalt RAS saws. I have two actually. One was my dad's from the early 60's and I bought a Model 777 in the early 70's. I built quite a few things with it over the years and with a little care it was dead on for accuracy. I cut many a 45 miter that matched up perfectly. Even a few compound angles.

    There are still a few things I'd rather do on the RAS than with my TS, but that's me. The RAS is how I learned what I know about WW'ing and it still has a place in my shop.

    That being said if you find one at a good price [70's or older DeWalt] I'm sure it will serve you well. I have no idea what kind of price one would bring though. As a guess I'd say maybe $200-300.

    Karl
    Creeker Visits. They're the best.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Colorado
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    I'm considering adding a RAS to my shop too. I recently relocated my tablesaw to maximize shop space. The new location limits my rips to 36" and crosscuts on the right side of the blade to about the same.

    I used to crosscut [and dado] very long boards on a sled to the right of the blade with support from a 52" extension table. Now I'm faced with fashioning a new sled for the left side of the blade to handle long pieces such as bed rails/posts and long table skirts and stretchers.

    As an option to building yet another sled that might not be an optimum solution, I'm considering adding a RAS to the shop strictly for 90 degree crosscuts and dado operations. However, I would want it to be dead-on accurate. Every time I read a thread on radial arm saws, there are always posts claiming their RAS is only good for rough cuts which then casts doubts about picking up a RAS.

    I'd be interested in knowing if others have accurate RAS setups and what techniques/tools do people typically use for crosscutting and fashioning tenons in bed rails and table stretchers.
    Last edited by Sean Nagle; 12-11-2009 at 4:48 PM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Cache Valley, Utah
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    I'm down to about four RAS right now. With a little luck one of them will go away this weekend. I use my radial arm saw(s) all the time in addition to the table saws. I have a 12" Delta I use for breaking down stock and general crosscutting, and a 9" 50s vintage DeWalt I use for trimming and fine work. I use both of them for dado and lap joints. My suggestion would be to look for a late 40s to very early 60s DeWalt, preferably a round arm model. I would stay away from the later B&D DeWalts, and ANY Craftsman. Craigslist is full of C'man saws, and there's a reason for that.

    You should be able to find an MBF, MBC or 925 without too much trouble and for not too much money. Of course, the better shape they are in, the more they will probably cost, but if you can find one that is pretty intact but ugly, they are easy and fun to restore. I will try to post some pictures later.

  8. #8
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    Dave, you're My Kinda Guy! I'm down to 4 RAS's myself now The old C'man Has just got to GO tho! (to make way for my big Rockwell 18", 7.5hp monster. I have two 12" Delta/Rockwells retrofitted with newer track arms with trackrods rather than machined grooves.

    A healthy RAS is really nice for crosscutting 8/4 or even 4/4 hardwood! Wimpy 3/4hp 10"ers need not apply! I find that the 1.5hp Rockwell/Delta is about as *small* as I can afford to go. DeWalt made some fine cast iron RAS's in the past! These are often had at real bargain prices!

    There is much debate between the archaic RAS and smaller, lighter, more trendy SMCS. Neither are worth a hoot if they do not retain their settings, or if they bobble and ruin a finish cut! Many man-hours have been devoted to the merits (and demerits) of the two here. Research and learn!
    [/SIGPIC]Necessisity is the Mother of Invention, But If it Ain't Broke don't Fix It !!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Richmond, VA
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    664
    Brandon,

    I use my RAS for ~90 crosscut only and it gets used quite a bit. A good compound miter saw would do the same thing. If you do follow through on getting a RAS, an older Dewalt or Delta would be fun to own. I agree with the previous negative comments about Craftsman saws.

    -Jerry

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Arkansas
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    556
    The Craftsman RAS was the first major machine I purchased (1979 vintage). I had it for about 15 years and replaced it with a miter saw. I have absolutely no regrets about this and can honestly say that I never wished I still had it or even had a use for it that I couldn't satisfy with another tool or machine in my shop. If I were in your shoes, I would only buy one if I had a very definitive and repetitive use for it. One question to ask yourself is: "Why do RAS's keep showing up for sale on Craigslist?" The answer to this should lead you to answer your own question.

  11. #11
    I'm actually currently rebuilding my Grandfathers 50's DeWalt model GE 16" RAS, and I would make this suggestion just from what I've learned rebuilding it. Anything lightweight (i.e. smaller than 12") most likely will have flex problems. Which isn't a problem if you are just using it to rough stock, but if you are trying to make fine cuts you will probably need something a good bit bigger. I do like my 16" RAS for that very reason, it's so heavy and large you can't cause it to flex, and it was well made, so all the parts fit together correctly.

    In summary, if you end up getting a smaller unit it should be fine for roughing out stock, but you will need a larger more substantial unit if you want to do more accurate cuts, but I definitely think they are nice to have for certain tasks, but like all tools they have strengths and weaknesses.

    -Stephen

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Cache Valley, Utah
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chip Lindley View Post
    I have two 12" Delta/Rockwells retrofitted with newer track arms with trackrods rather than machined grooves.
    I was wondering if you could do that. I have two Delta 12" RAS, one an 80s model that's my daily user and an older 70s model I just picked up a few weeks ago for $50 that I plan to restore. The older one has the machined grooves. What is involved in the conversion? Just buying the rods and new carriage bearing guides?

  13. #13
    For anyone reading this thread who is interested in owning old radial arm saws, I have one for sale: the Monarch portable radial arm saw cast in magnesium to save weight.

    The Uni-Point Radial Arm Saw was mfg in NJ by the American Woodworking Machinery Company. Here is a link to the original sales brochure from 1950. http://www.owwm.com/pubs/36/701.pdf

    It shows the sales price in 1950 as $485 plus $40 for the base = $525. The motor is wired for 230V single phase. It can be switched to 115V.

    I would like to sell the saw because I need the room. The motor runs like new. It needs a new blade. The bearings that the arm rides on work OK, but should be replaced for it to work like new. I took some time a couple of weeks ago to clean and lubricate the angle scale and it now swivels like new.

    What makes the Uni-point saw special, is because of the way it is made. The name Uni-point is to denote how it's different from other radial arm saws that rotate from a stationary arm in the back. This saw swivels at the exact point where the blade meets the fence. That means it does not matter what angle you are cutting, that point stays the same. You always know how to line up your cut. A fence on a typical radial arm saw is cut through at various places. Every different angle and bevel results in a different cut through the fence. This portable uni-point saw is no longer made. It's big brother is still being manufactured by Northfield.

    http://www.northfieldwoodworking.com...s/unipoint.htm

    It comes in several flavors, the cheapest is $13,130. I'm asking $300 for this saw as is. I'm in the Memphis area. If interested or you have questions, send me a PM.
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  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    Portsmouth, VA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Rowe View Post
    The Craftsman RAS was the first major machine I purchased (1979 vintage). I had it for about 15 years and replaced it with a miter saw. I have absolutely no regrets about this and can honestly say that I never wished I still had it or even had a use for it that I couldn't satisfy with another tool or machine in my shop. If I were in your shoes, I would only buy one if I had a very definitive and repetitive use for it. One question to ask yourself is: "Why do RAS's keep showing up for sale on Craigslist?" The answer to this should lead you to answer your own question.
    Don't make the same mistake I did and judge a RAS from the crap sears put out for years. Even the real old ones aren't worth the trouble. As Dave mentioned, go with a cast iron arm saw such as an old Dewalt or Delta. 50's to 60's vintage preferably. They can be very accurate once properly set up and as a bonus, the dust collection tends to be much more effective. Even a small saw such as an older Dewalt MBF will give you about a 13" crosscut. You can also spin a dado blade on it, try that with a sliding miter saw.

    You will have to make a table that is very rigid and flat in order to achieve the accuracy. Google "Mr. Sawdust" and see what you find.

  15. Here is a WALKER/TURNER 12 Inch Center Pivot Saw.......Commercial Heavy Duty...1 1/2 HP.....220V....Single Phase. This thing is a beast...all cast iron. I look at it in the shop more than I use it. Other machinery seem to be used more. I am thinking about parting with it. I believe it could cut a house in half!
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