10/2 or 10/3

[phil harold]

Wow, that is rather cute I must admit!!

I still like my 240V plugs to be twist-locks...just a personal preferance.

I like those twist locks too
but,
boy has the price gone up on them cost me an arm and a leg to upgrade

I was just reinsulation a wall in my shop and was adding 2 electrical lines one to be 220 and a 110 with the existing 110
now I can have 2 220 and 2 110 it is like getting 4 circuits for the price of 3

[Tom Veatch]

I still like my 240V plugs to be twist-locks...just a personal preferance.

I shy away from the twist-locks, for wall plugs anyway. I prefer the plug disconnect from the socket rather than my nose contacting the floor when I trip over the power cord.

[Rick Moyer]

I shy away from the twist-locks, for wall plugs anyway. I prefer the plug disconnect from the socket rather than my nose contacting the floor when I trip over the power cord.

I agree. I was contemplating twist locks during my electrical install and decided against them for the same reason. I am curious why one would prefer the twisties? I have no problem keeping the regular plugs in the outlets, and I'd rather have the plug pull out than the cord rip!

[Bob Genovesi]

I run mostly 12-2 wire in my shop because it's sufficient for anything up to and including 20 amps. To determine this I look at the power ratings on the equipment to dictate what I should use but for the most part all my machines have been converted to run 220 volts and 12-2 works well..

[Chris Padilla]

I agree. I was contemplating twist locks during my electrical install and decided against them for the same reason. I am curious why one would prefer the twisties? I have no problem keeping the regular plugs in the outlets, and I'd rather have the plug pull out than the cord rip!

Simple reason: #10 wire is a tad bulky and heavy and the twist-locks hold things connected better. I don't have any issues with tripping so that is not a concern and although the non-twist-locks might work better in that regard, you shouldn't have trip issues to begin with IMO.

[Rob Russell]

I agree. I was contemplating twist locks during my electrical install and decided against them for the same reason. I am curious why one would prefer the twisties? I have no problem keeping the regular plugs in the outlets, and I'd rather have the plug pull out than the cord rip!

If you're running 3-phase stuff, the twistlocks are physically smaller than the straight-bladed plugs. The 3-phase straight-bladed plugs are pretty big.

[Rick Moyer]

Simple reason: #10 wire is a tad bulky and heavy and the twist-locks hold things connected better. I don't have any issues with tripping so that is not a concern and although the non-twist-locks might work better in that regard, you shouldn't have trip issues to begin with IMO.

If you're running 3-phase stuff, the twistlocks are physically smaller than the straight-bladed plugs. The 3-phase straight-bladed plugs are pretty big.

OK, I can see that. I don't have anything three-phase, and the only 30a./10ga. unit (heater) is hard wired. Everthing else runs on 20a./12ga.
i am wiring the new shop so there should be no tripping hazards. Just couldn't envision why I would want twist locks, especially for more $$.

[Marlin Williams]

I ran the 12-2 for my reg. outlets, a mix of 14/12-2 for my lights and TV outlet and 10-3 for my 240. I have 1 20amp, 1 15amp, and 1 double 20 for breakers. My shop is small so I should not have to upgrade the power at all.

But I use dryer plugs. large, cheap, and easy to find. Let alone they can handle even more power then will ever travel through them.

[Rob Russell]

Marlin,

If you're using 30A dryer receptacles on the 20A circuits and reterminating your equipment with the plugs to fit, technically that's a code violation. The 20A circuit is only supposed to have 15A and/or 20A receptacles on it.

Rob

[Tom Veatch]

Marlin,

If you're using 30A dryer receptacles on the 20A circuits and reterminating your equipment with the plugs to fit, technically that's a code violation. The 20A circuit is only supposed to have 15A and/or 20A receptacles on it.

Rob

Easy fix. Since he's already got 10ga wire installed and assuming wire run is within limits, pull the 20a breaker and replace with a 30a and everything should be copacetic.

[Rob Russell]

Easy fix. Since he's already got 10ga wire installed and assuming wire run is within limits, pull the 20a breaker and replace with a 30a and everything should be copacetic.

Seems like overkill to plug something like a drill press or other 120v machine into. His shop, his choice.