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Thread: Front Porch Entry Bench

  1. #1

    Question Front Porch Entry Bench

    Hello All, This is my first posting to the design forum so be gentle. I'm remodeling (refacing really) a front entry way in my home and as part of that we'd like to add an entry bench for both function and decor. Now unfortunately changing the dimensions of the entry way is not a possibility as that would mean changing the entry way and staircase all the way up my three family home - big bucks there. So the space the finished piece will be going has dictated the dimensions, or at least the max dimensions which the model as designed now is using. If there is compelling reason it can be made smaller.

    For both the look I want in the finished piece and the price of materials I have decided to use 1" x 5" (3/4" x 4 1/2 " here) pine boards which I will plane/joint down to 5/8" x 4" with a very few of the pieces being cut to different sizes as shown in the model.

    The seat, two seat skirt pieces, two horizontal bracing/decorative boards across the back, and the shelf and decorative moulding piece on top are going to be finished a dark walnut color and the rest a lighter honey. The Sketchup model doesn't really do this justice but it'll have to do until I have time to render it out in 3Ds Max.

    The bench will not be exposed to the weather but it will also be in an unheated area with a door directly to the outside. I will be using a stainless steel piano hinge and lid support for the seat to avoid corrosion. I did not model the hinge because quite frankly trying to get the hinge designed to the right size was giving me more headaches than I felt like dealing with. I did leave clearance for the hinge in the model though and that will be adjusted if needed based on the actual hinge I pick up.

    My biggest toss up right now is fasteners. I would actually like to bore holes and use flush cut hardwood dowels and Titebond but I worry if that will prove strong enough. My other thought is either stainless steel wood screws or stainless steel cabinet style screws from the inside and back where needed.

    The model was too big to upload here so I uploaded it too Google instead - here's the link -

    http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehou...286b10d60301a3

    Any thoughts will be appreciated.
    If my cut looks off it's because you lack that divine spark of insight necessary to understand how a true masterwork should look. - Patrick Laflamme

    MDF is for amateurs!

  2. #2
    Patrick, I saw that no one replied to your question so I'll give it a try. Here are some concerns that i saw with your design. The seat is a little too high at 20". I also felt that you would drive yourself crazy putting all those boards together with dowels. Using so many 3/4" boards will make the piece heavy and more expensive than it needs to be.

    Having said all that, I took the liberty to draw you a more simple design. I don't know your overall woodworking skills or equipment so I kept the design simple and used common sized lumber. I didn't use any joinery such as mortise and tenon, but instead used butt joints that I expect would be held together with pocket screws. I also used 1/4" panels that will make the piece lighter and still add strength. I also added 1/4 round to the insides of the panel framing to give it a more finished look. Here are a couple of renderings showing it painted.

    I have loaded the SketchUp model into the 3D Warehouse so you will be able to download it no matter what version of SketchUp you have. The model is in my "Creekside Woodshop" collection.

    Good luck and post a photo if and when you get the project done. Ron
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Ron Fritz; 04-16-2009 at 2:14 PM.

  3. #3
    While I appreciate the effort that went into your model; it's just a completely different look and feel than what I'm after.

    The weight for me is not an issue. I prefer furniture to be a bit more heavy duty than most stuff you find in the stores these days so the extra weight is fine. Besides, as planned it should only be about 60 - 70 pounds which is nothing and once in place it will in all likelihood be there until after I'm dead; and after that I must admit my concern drops off considerably . Also; I rarely use 1/4" inch thick anything unless it's for a decorative overlay or inlay or some such.

    It also feels off to me using pocket screws and butt joints for structural connections, especially on something like a bench that is going to be taking a lot of wear and movement. I like things that lock together mechanically aside from whatever fasteners are used to secure the joint. This could just be a personal thing and if anyone has any links or reference material on the subject proving it strong enough I'd be interested in reading it.

    Wood expense isn't much of any issue in this case as I can get the pine planks at a local overstock outlet for 2 -3 bucks per 8 foot 1 x 6 anytime I want them. Plus I'm in there so often the owner always throws me an extra discount anyway. The wood all together should only run about $80 and the hardware I've got priced out at about $30 so about $110 give or take for the whole project. Not bad considering similar store bought stuff is only priced for yuppies at around $1300 and up and made in China.

    I had wondered about the height of the seat. I had originally just measured from the floor to the inside of my knee but after reading your concern of the height I went and measured to a few other knees in the household. 16" still seems a little low to me but 20" is definitely too high; splitting the difference at 18" seems just about right though.
    If my cut looks off it's because you lack that divine spark of insight necessary to understand how a true masterwork should look. - Patrick Laflamme

    MDF is for amateurs!

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