220V Timer?

[Chris Jenkins]

Anyone using a 220V timer or know where I can find one of these? I have been to the BORG and haven't been able to find anything. I am getting tired of my air compressor going off in the middle of the night and waking me up. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Chris

[John Schreiber]

Anyone using a 220V timer or know where I can find one of these? I have been to the BORG and haven't been able to find anything. I am getting tired of my air compressor going off in the middle of the night and waking me up. Any ideas? . . .

I saw one of those at our local Menards just the other day. It needed to be wired in, but it would worked perfectly for that. It had a 24 hour clock inside with metal pins which indicated when it should run and when it shouldn't.

[Mike Henderson]

There's a couple of way of dealing with that, both of which require a 120V relay, which in turn controls the power to the compressor.

One way is to use a regular 120V timer and control the relay. So the compressor only gets power when the timer is "On".

The other way is to replace the timer with a motion sensor. That way, when you're in the shop, the motion sensor will switch the relay, providing power to the compressor. The compressor only runs when you're in the shop.

Or, if you turn your lights off when you're not in the shop, hook the relay to your light circuit so the compressor only runs when the lights are on.

Mike

[Von Bickley]

You could use a 220 volt timer for a water heater. Any electrical supply house should have one.

[Mike Heidrick]

Just close the valve on/at your air compressor when you are done for the day/night? Or, turn off your compressor.

[keith ouellette]

Anyone using a 220V timer or know where I can find one of these? I have been to the BORG and haven't been able to find anything. I am getting tired of my air compressor going off in the middle of the night and waking me up. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Chris

I almost ruined my air compressor that way. I had a leak at the regulator and it ran non stop for about 12 hours.

I put my 220 compressor on a switch. The switch is on the same panel as the light but the only thing on that circut. switch so I just flip the switch off with the lights any time I leave the shop. That way the compressor can never come on unless flip the switch back on.

[Mike Cutler]

You could use a 220 volt timer for a water heater. Any electrical supply house should have one.

Bingo!

An internet search under Line Voltage Controllers should provide you with all sorts of options. They perform a myriad of functions, Water Heaters, Electric baseboard heating, HV lighting, green house lighting, etc.

The device for a water heater timer in the local Borg is in the aisle with the water heaters, and located in the lighting section???? Not a clue why it's in the lighting section.

[david mcnamara]

Just use a simple 120 volt timer and cut one leg of the 220volts. There is no way your compressor can run without both legs of the 220volts. This will be the simple way to ensure that your compressor won't run in the middle of the night when you forget you shut off the switch. In most commercial applications this is the way that manufacturers control rooftop A/C units and a variety of other products. If you have a hesitation of only switching one "leg" of the 220 volts put two timers in. Any of the other suggestions will work. To me this is a simple/cheap resolution with the least amount rewiring or adding relays ect.
David

[Tony Bilello]

and open the drain valve to drain the the tank of any water. When I turn it on in the morning I let it run for a few seconds as I close the drain valve this gets rid of additional moisture.

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Just buy a swimming pool timer at HD or Lowes. You can have it go on or off any time you'd like just like a pool pump.

[Chris Jenkins]

Thanks for all the great suggestions! Sadly enough I already have the compressor on a switch as the compressor is outside in my garage and my shop is down in the basement.

I originally installed the switch because I was worried that I would crack the cylinder during the cold cold winter when it kicked on. Trouble is I installed the switch after the fact so I went the lazy route and just put the switch next to the service panel down in the basement. I know, I know, why not just flip the breaker at that point? Lets just say it wasn't the most thought out plan. I guess I should just get off my lazy butt and land the switch in a more convenient place like I originally planned, rather then inside the service closet. One would think right next to the lights would be a GREAT place for it. (Truth be told I was going to put it in with the lights, but I was going to break the lights into two separate switches back when I built the shop, but this never happened, so my "temporary switch" has become much more permanent)

Chris