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Thread: What tool for roughing out end grain

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    El Dorado, KS
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    What tool for roughing out end grain

    Hello all,

    I have a 3/4 Sorby roughing gouge and while shopping for more toolss, I notices a disclaimer on the listing for this gouge that stated "not designed for roughing out of end grain bowls". Hmmmm thats what I have been using and it seems to work pretty good (granted I have only turned green logs and I have been hexagoning them prior to chucking up) So what do you all use?

    I did noticed that they make a 1 1/4 roughing gouge.

    Thanks for your input.

    Scott

  2. #2
    Use a bowl gouge.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Tidewater, VA
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    273
    Ditto. Bowl gouge.
    The roughing gouge is for spindle work. The 3/4" will get you into trouble. The 1 1/4" will get you into bigger trouble.
    The problem has to do with the tang at one end of the tool (small cross section) and with the wide mouth (bigger bite) at the other.
    When (not 'if') you get a bad catch on end grain, the load will fracture the tool where the tang enters the tool handle. If that and a change of underwear are all you suffer, so much the better. A flying bowl blank or projectile gouge are also possible...and there's no telling what they'll hit before coming to rest.

    BobV

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Detroit, MI
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    1,661
    Bob is right. Using a spindle roughing gouge on end grain work is dangerous. The shape and grind tend to pull the edge into the end grain turning catches into huge catches. The result will be parts of the blank flying off as well as parts of the gouge after the tang has snapped off. Getting the bigger roughing gouge just makes an even bigger catch.

    You should be using a bowl gouge on end grain work. It's MUCH easier anyway. Don't try to rough round an end grain blank on the circumfrence like a spindle blank. That just beats you up. Make cuts from the side with the bowl gouge, from the bottom of the bowl to the top of the bowl (i.e. start shaping the outside of the bowl). The blank will round itself very quickly and much more smoothly/easily than if you try to do it like a spindle blank.

  5. #5

    Roughing Gouge

    I, be new to turning, also used a Roughing Gouge for trueing up bowl blanks. It seemed to work okay, for-a-while. The last time I use it, (and the last time I'll ever use it), the catch was so violent that the force down broke my tool rest in half. After I cleaned my britches, I ordered me a new tool rest and posted what happen on the Creek. I was told to use a bowl gouge. Since then, I have watched a DVD by Jimmy Clewes and he for roughing out a bowl gouge use the very (1/8 inch) tip of the bowl gouge held on a 45 degree angle.

  6. #6
    "not designed for roughing out of end grain bowls" is a good rule but shouldn't end there, "not designed for roughing out any style of bowl" would be a better rule. As previously stated, it's the "tang". Roughing gouges, which should be called "Spindle Roughing Gouges", should only be used on spindle work.

    I agree with everyone else, use a bowl gouge for roughing and finishing-unless you want to use a scraper. Different size gouges with different grinds are the best option for almost any job on a bowl.


    As far as SRG, I have a 1 1/4" and absolutely love it. There's a lot more heft to it than a 3/4" SRG. There's also a 1 3/4" that is common, but I'm happy with my 1 1/4" Hamlet/Packard SRG.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Goodland, Kansas
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    22,605
    Bowl gouge for bowls and spindle roughing gouge for spindles. Ask my neighbor if a roughing gouge is good for bowls. After a hand full of stitches from the broken gouge and broken tool rest he got it.
    Bernie

    Never put off until tomorrow what you can do the day after tomorrow.

    To succeed in life, you need three things: a wishbone, a backbone and a funnybone.



  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Eau claire, Wisconsin
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    3,084

    Me I use my own creation!

    Scott, I know I have said this before but I will say it again. I have the perfect tool for turning into endgrain. It works every time and will do anything you ask it to! I have been selling the bits all over the world and have had many happy customers! I am tooting my own horn now and it feels good!!! The sound is magnificant! I have posted pics on my gallery page and if you need more info there are videos at my website on youtube. Check it out and see what you think!

    Jeff
    To turn or not to turn that is the question: ........Of course the answer is...........TURN ,TURN,TURN!!!!
    Anyone "Fool" can know, The important thing is to Understand................Albert Einstein
    To follow blindly, is to never become a leader............................................ .....Unknown

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Boise, Idaho
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    I've made a number of end grain bowls using my regular gouges. Did not run into a particular problems. No special grind is needed either. Just a good sharp edge. Depending on the wood, you may get a "hairy" finish. A newly edged scraper will do the trick.

    Burt

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    El Dorado, KS
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryan Baker View Post

    You should be using a bowl gouge on end grain work. It's MUCH easier anyway. Don't try to rough round an end grain blank on the circumfrence like a spindle blank. That just beats you up. Make cuts from the side with the bowl gouge, from the bottom of the bowl to the top of the bowl (i.e. start shaping the outside of the bowl). The blank will round itself very quickly and much more smoothly/easily than if you try to do it like a spindle blank.
    So am I to understand that if I screw a face plate to the future top of the bowl (like I have been doing) and turn the bottom of the bowl for the dovetail insert of the chuck and then I should start rounding from the bottom up to the rim? Instead of going at it from the side of the bowl first? I have been roughing from the side and then tuning my tang for the chuck... from the side and it beats the heck out of me.

  11. #11
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    Apr 2009
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    Thanks to all who responded. I wont be using the 3/4" roughing gouge for this anymore. My new 1/2" bowl gouge is very heavy so it should work good.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Putnam County, NY
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    3,086
    I have a Oneway Termite tool and that is the tool for the job for me.
    I could cry for the time I've wasted, but thats a waste of time and tears.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Towradgi NSW Australia
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    82
    Oland tools are good for roughing end grain bowls. I have 2 made for me by one of the boys over here, (in Australia). One is a 1/2" HSS square/Round cutting profiles for quick roughing and a 1/4" HSS Square/Half Round profiles for finer work and goblet bowls. I am awaiting the middle size, 3/8", which I have a 14% Cobalt bit ready for service.

    Google Oland Tools to get some info on these and maybe someone on this board makes them in the States for sale to members . . . you never know your luck
    Attached Images Attached Images

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Burt Alcantara View Post
    I've made a number of end grain bowls using my regular gouges. Did not run into a particular problems...
    I'm assuming your regular gouges are bowl gouges. If you're using spindle gouges, that's like saying "I drive drunk all the time, and haven't had any problems."

    Quote Originally Posted by John Shuk View Post
    I have a Oneway Termite tool and that is the tool for the job for me.
    He's talking about roughing it out. The termite's not well suited for making a blank round. It's fine in end grain once you've got it round, but I think the OP is looking for something to get to that point.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Tyler, Texas
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    2,041
    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Hackler View Post
    So am I to understand that if I screw a face plate to the future top of the bowl (like I have been doing) and turn the bottom of the bowl for the dovetail insert of the chuck and then I should start rounding from the bottom up to the rim? Instead of going at it from the side of the bowl first? I have been roughing from the side and then tuning my tang for the chuck... from the side and it beats the heck out of me.
    If you start from the bottom and work to the rim of the bowl it will be a lot easier on your arms and your tools. Place the gouge with the handle app. 45 degrees down from horizontal, with the butt end pulled 45 degrees towards your body and with the flute rolled 45 degrees towards the direction of the cut...ie, a 45-45-45 pull cut. You will like the results.
    Cody


    Logmaster LM-1 sawmill, 30 hp Kioti tractor w/ FEL, Stihl 290 chainsaw, 300 bf cap. Solar Kiln

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