View Poll Results: What to use for mitre bar stock?

Voters
75. You may not vote on this poll
  • Anything other than $40 worth of Incra mitre bars is not worthy of your crosscut sled.

    6 8.00%
  • Not worth $40, but you really should take the time to drill/tap steel bars for your sled.

    14 18.67%
  • Run what you brung, square the sled to the blade, shoot some brads, countersink, move on.

    41 54.67%
  • You are over-thinking this in a big way. Nothing to see here, move along.

    11 14.67%
  • Carrots and peas.

    3 4.00%
Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 38

Thread: Poll: What to use for mitre bar stock?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    So Cal
    Posts
    63

    Poll: What to use for mitre bar stock?

    OK this weekend I'm going to be rebuilding some jigs that are either too awkward or too big or too old. What should I use for the bar stock? I normally just use some Oak or Hard Rock Maple.
    Last edited by Brian Smith3; 04-24-2009 at 5:08 PM.

  2. #2
    I'm lookin' for the same thing. I noticed some hard plastic stuff as well that was used in the Super Sled video but no source.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Trussville, AL
    Posts
    3,589
    I also used Oak (Red, just what happened to be available). I think the plastic stuff mentioned might be UHMW (I think those are the right letters) plastic. Pretty tough and ultra slick.

    I think if I was rebuilding a jig I knew would see a lot of use then I'd spring for the Incra bars

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    In the foothills of the Sandia Mountains
    Posts
    16,622
    I made some UHMW runners for my sled. This is an old pic but so far, so good.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Please help support the Creek.


    "It's paradoxical that the idea of living a long life appeals to everyone, but the idea of getting old doesn't appeal to anyone."
    Andy Rooney



  5. #5
    I did a search on the UHMW and it turns out Peach Tree has it in 3/4" wide strips designed to be use in miter slots that ain't too expensive.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    22,494
    Blog Entries
    1
    I have a coping sled where the smallest deviation creates gaps = Incra miter slider at about $14
    My normal sized sled has UHMW 'cause "that's what I brung".
    My large sled has oak runners 'cause "that's what I brung"
    My bevel sled has . . . uh, I forget but the point is . . . it really doesn't matter. Syntho doesn't require care and feeding but I haven't tweaked my oak runners since last year so, what's your tolerance for fiddling ;-)
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Williamsburg,Va.
    Posts
    12,402
    Years ago I noticed that for most table saws,USA made ones,the standard miter gauge slop was .014" !!!! Makes you wonder how anyone ever did any accurate work,but we did.This was back in the 60's I measured the slop.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Northwestern Connecticut
    Posts
    7,149
    I like a steel bar drilled and tapped for big sleds, on the last one I drilled 8-32 holes going sideways to hold hard nylon set screws that take out the slop. Now, no slop. I do the same in both wood and UHMW runners. I like maple better than oak for runners, so that's what I bring. I have a set of the incra runners that move from sled to sled now and then, bought them when I was younger, dumber, and wealthier. Now I'm smart enough to spend $60 on machinist tools and bits, and countless hours drilling and tapping, to make a $9 bar of steel behave the way I want.

    Now matter how you make them, if you always push to the same side of the miter slot, even a sloppy fit will do pretty accurate work. Sort of like giving the ball a little english when playing pool.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Whitehorse Yukon Canada
    Posts
    40

    UHMW and Incra

    I've used Lee Valley's UHMW for a while, they're precut to slot size. Some pieces come a bit oversized for my slots but it cuts easy on the table saw. Easy to tune with a card scraper, and tighten with a few screws when I screw up and take too much off. I've put Incras on my bigger sled and they're fantasic.
    Last edited by Griph0n Brown; 04-24-2009 at 7:58 PM.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Central New Mexico
    Posts
    425
    I usually use mild steel or aluminum bar stock drilled and tapped. Most metal suppliers carry the right size stock - I've even seen it at the Borg sometimes.
    The problem with education in the School of Hard Knocks is that by the time you're educated, you're too old to do anything.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Doylestown, PA
    Posts
    7,551

    Steel a potential problem?

    Is mild steel quite a bit harder than cast iron? If so, is there potential for steel runners to wear cast iron miter slots? I'd prefer the runner wear rather than the miter slot wear, dunno if this is an issue or not.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Portsmouth, VA
    Posts
    476
    Quote Originally Posted by Stan Johnsey View Post
    I did a search on the UHMW and it turns out Peach Tree has it in 3/4" wide strips designed to be use in miter slots that ain't too expensive.
    +1 I bought a piece from Peachtree that was about 4" wide and ripped it to fit the non standard miter slots on my saw. Very easy to machine. I have it on a miter sled and retrofitted it to a tenoning jig. Good stuff.




  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Northern Michigan
    Posts
    4,973
    I bought 350#s of plastics, mostly UHMW, but some Lexan as well from this company for very little money. They are a plastic manufacturer and wholesaler, but sell their shorts cheap.

    Norva Plastics, Norfolk Virginia.

    I have shaper fences and all kinds of things made out of plastic, saves on Top Coat....

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Pittsford, NY
    Posts
    166
    Am I the only one who went with the Kreg runners? They come in 30" lengths and have the nylon screws to adjust the tightness. I have them on my large crosscut sled. No problems so far.

    -Brian

  15. Quote Originally Posted by Peter Quinn View Post
    I like a steel bar drilled and tapped for big sleds, on the last one I drilled 8-32 holes going sideways to hold hard nylon set screws that take out the slop. Now, no slop. I do the same in both wood and UHMW runners. I like maple better than oak for runners, so that's what I bring. I have a set of the incra runners that move from sled to sled now and then, bought them when I was younger, dumber, and wealthier. Now I'm smart enough to spend $60 on machinist tools and bits, and countless hours drilling and tapping, to make a $9 bar of steel behave the way I want.

    Now matter how you make them, if you always push to the same side of the miter slot, even a sloppy fit will do pretty accurate work. Sort of like giving the ball a little english when playing pool.
    I did the same thing with my runners. I installed spring plungers.
    http://www.springplungers.com/ Clifford.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •