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Thread: Saw Till Pics or Plans?

  1. #16
    You ain't just kidding Derek. Looking back to that post from 2003, I greatly regret reducing the size of the sawtill from 36" to 30". My Dad did give up all but 1 of the family saws about a year after the till was completed. I also acquired a few more in various ways. The long and short of it is that the till is pretty much full. Maybe I can post a picture tonight.
    Dave Anderson

    Chester, NH

  2. #17
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    Ken sent me the plans

    I am very grateful to Kenneth Martin, both for downloading the plans while the were available and for sending them to me to use.

    Is it alright with the Creek for me to post these plans here, giving full credit to the Old Tools forum that originally posted them?
    Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!

  3. #18
    Go right ahead and post the plans Brian. Thanks, I wasn't able to find them on line and I'm at work now so I don't know if I saved a copy of the ones I drew in 2003.
    Dave Anderson

    Chester, NH

  4. #19
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    Galoots Sawtill Project

    This vertical sawtill project was commissioned as "group Project #2"; by
    the members of the OldTools list. It is easy to build with a small set
    of tools, and provides good practice in the basics of hand joinery.
    Special thanks should be given to Jim Thoreson, for the design work.

    Stock Selection:
    This project uses 3/4" and 1/4" stock. Optimally, the species chosen
    should be hard enough to hold nice dovetails. For this reason, a
    hardwood such as Oak, Maple, Cherry, or Walnut is best.

    If you go to buy dimensioned stock, here are a few pointers. When buying
    wood for a project, don't always have a certain wood in mind. Look over
    what is in stock and select the best group of boards available.
    Run, don't walk from boards that have twist, cup, or other problems. One
    can also pay the 6.50 BF for S4S(Boards that are surfaced on all four
    sides) at the Lowe's/Home Depots of the world. These still need to be
    checked carefully to make sure that you have flat boards.
    While you are there pick up some 1/4" stock for the back panels.


    Materials List:

    ITEM QUANTITY T L W

    Sides (1 board) 3/4" x 52" x 12"
    Back, top & bottom (2) 3/4" x 36" x 7 3/4"
    Large saw kerf board (2) 3/4" x 35" x 2"
    Large saw handle rest (1) 3/4" x 36" x 2"
    Small saw kerf board (2) 3/4" x 10" x 2"
    Small saw handle rest (1) 3/4" x 10" x 2"
    Small saw handle base (1) 3/4" x 10" x 5"
    Drawer top & bottom (2) 3/4" x 36" x 12"
    Drawer dividers (2) 3/4" x 12" x 5 3/4"
    Back panels (3) 1/4" x 26-1/2" x 11"
    Back panel dividers (2) 3/4" x 27-1/2" x 2"

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------

    This is a picture of what the completed sawtill should look like. It
    will hold 16-20 full size handsaws, 7 tenon and 7 dovetail saws.
    A real nice feature is the three drawers at the bottom. One can store
    lots of saw related items, right there for quick retrieval.
    http://www.shavings.net/images/ST-Iso.gif

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------

    To begin the project, we will cut out the sides. Pull out the 3/4" x 52"
    x 12" board and prepare to layout some lines.
    This one board will produce both side pieces of the sawtill. The hardest
    part of this is to get the "blend" area such that there is a mirror image.
    This can be avoided by making a straight line instead of a blend effect.
    Different people may like different things. If one chooses to try the
    blend, and it doesn't quite work out, it can still be fixed.
    Once the sides are cut out, clamp the two sides together and work on
    them until they are exactly alike.
    http://www.shavings.net/images/ST-Side.gif

    The joinery done on the sides should be fairly straight forward by
    looking at the pictures.
    I should mention that the back panels are received into the sides by
    means of a rebate(groove).

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    http://www.shavings.net/images/ST-Assy.gif

    From here, its wide open to how you want to proceed. I would tend to
    work on all the horizontal pieces and dry fit them.
    Then you can double check the lengths needed for the vertical pieces,
    and cut them to size. Then cut the rebates, dados, etc.. needed to
    receive the verticals.
    Dry fit the piece, and once you are satisfied, glue it up.

    If wanted, you can make a nice set of drawers to go in the bottom.

    Another option can be to attach hooks to the bottom of the sawtill to
    hang items from.
    Last edited by Brian Kent; 04-29-2009 at 1:33 PM.
    Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!

  5. #20
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    Here are the pictures:
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!

  6. #21
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    Brian

    Note that the use of dovetails at the top of this cabinet is a weak point. They lie on the long grain and are likely to break off. The design needs to be altered.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  7. #22
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    I really like the open tenons and multi-piece back on the Woodsmith one.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  8. #23
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    I am picturing a simple rabbett. Any ideas that are more fun?
    Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!

  9. #24
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    Very nice, Glenn.

    Another reason I like that is that my stock on hand is quarter sawn white oak (from Reel Lumber's short and cheap pile) and I have decided several times that it is too "crispy" for dovetails. I can cut it, then chunks break off at the most inconvenient times.
    Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!

  10. #25
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    Raleigh, NC
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    "Note that the use of dovetails at the top of this cabinet is a weak point. They lie on the long grain and are likely to break off. The design needs to be altered."

    Indeed. Hanging this cabinet by that top back board filled with several thousand dollars worth of saws (and maybe an irreplaceable family heirloom) might be inviting disaster. Supporting it from underneath with shelf brackets would be one solution.

    As far as a replacement joint, even tenons in the back board and mortises in the sides would still be quite weak because of the board's location at the edge of the sides. This is a suggestion that doesn't satisfy the wood geek's need for highly refined joints (count me in in that group), but I'd think one of the best solutions from a strength perspective would be to rabbet the ends of the back board and cut a notch to fit in the side boards, and attach it with glue and square-cut nails put in from the back. Such a joint would be incredibly strong, and I wouldn't hesitate to hang it from the back board in that circumstance.

  11. #26
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    Wait a minute - Derek - isn't it almost 2AM in Perth?

    You didn't have to wake up in the middle of the night just to help me out. What a nice guy!
    Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!

  12. #27
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    Mountainburg, AR
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    A saw "till" huh! When did a storage cabinet turn into a till?
    I have heard of working till the sun goes down, going out to till the south forty, and taking money from the till. But never a saw till.
    Anybody know where that term came from?

    BTW: Can I make a till for my table saw blades? Or is that just a cabinet?
    Larry J Browning
    There are 10 kinds of people in this world; Those who understand binary and those who don't.

  13. #28
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    till (til)
    noun
    a drawer or tray for keeping money
    ready cash
    Etymology: earlier tille < Middle English tillen, to draw, reach < Old English

    So yes, you could stick your table saw blades in a specially made drawer, and call it a Saw Blade Till, but be very careful if you have your hand in the till!

    Also, Sawtill is what the people in Nawlins call that city in Washington.
    Last edited by Brian Kent; 04-29-2009 at 9:37 PM.
    Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Kent View Post
    Wait a minute - Derek - isn't it almost 2AM in Perth?

    You didn't have to wake up in the middle of the night just to help me out. What a nice guy!
    Hi Brian

    The bane of my life is report writing. About 2-3 hours of it almost every day, and unfortunately there is only time for this in the evenings. Trade?

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  15. #30
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    Altered design

    Now I've managed to split a thread again. I've been doing a lot of that recently.

    What started out as a quick question about chopping mortises across grain ended up linking to this thread. So here is the one about my question: how to chop mortises for this project:

    http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.p...=1#post1122085
    Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!

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