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Thread: Lets See Your Dust Collector Setup

  1. #1
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    Lets See Your Dust Collector Setup

    Let me start by saying that I dont have my workshop finished yet but it is started. Let me also say that I dont have a DC yet but I know which one I would like to get.

    This is my plan. I Plan on getting a 2HP cyclone DC from Grizzly. I am going with a cyclone because I am in a wheelchair and the option to get something that is smaller and move it around and connect it to each thing that I want to use is just not an option. The shop that I am building is going to be 24x30. I plan on having the entrance to this shop centered on the 24ft inside wall that separates the garage from the workshop. When you are looking at the shop door from the garage, it is my plan to have the DC in the corner to the left. It will go through the shop wall and distribute out from there. I plan on having my TS planer, and jointer in the middle of the shop with a miter saw and perhaps a router table on the wall to the right, and a bandsaw somewhere. The wall to the left will be full of cabinets. If you go to this thread you can kind of see what I am doing.

    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=109850

    I want to place the DC outside of the shop so that I dont have to listen to it. I am also going to put my air compressor out there so I dont have to listen to it either. I was just informed my so fellow creekers that I need to have some return air to help with performance. What I would like to do but am not sure if I can is have the intake and the fitler both go through the wall into the shop. Is it possible to put the cyclone together like that? I would like to see other peoples ideas and pictures. If I need to change the location I can still do that before I get the shop wall built, but I need to know. And post some pics of your setups so that we can all be inspired by what you have done. Thanks in advance for all the info.

    Chuck
    Last edited by Chuck Isaacson; 05-03-2009 at 4:59 PM.

  2. #2
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    Chuck....think about this for a minute. If you put your mouth over a pipe that is sealed at the other end......you can suck on it until you get so much air out of it and then...nothing.....If you remove the cap on the other end..and if it is large enough in diameter you can suck/breath all you want. This holds true for a DC....if you are pulling air out of the room at 1100 CFM....you had better be able to return air to the room at 1100 CFM.

    Jim Becker put his in a closet and built a return air duct that when looked at from the side resembles a "Z". Sound travels in straight lines. By making the return duct in the shape of a "Z" and then lining it with sound deadening material, he can run it without hearing it.
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ken Fitzgerald View Post
    Chuck....think about this for a minute. If you put your mouth over a pipe that is sealed at the other end......you can suck on it until you get so much air out of it and then...nothing.....If you remove the cap on the other end..and if it is large enough in diameter you can suck/breath all you want. This holds true for a DC....if you are pulling air out of the room at 1100 CFM....you had better be able to return air to the room at 1100 CFM.

    Jim Becker put his in a closet and built a return air duct that when looked at from the side resembles a "Z". Sound travels in straight lines. By making the return duct in the shape of a "Z" and then lining it with sound deadening material, he can run it without hearing it.
    So if I build it in a closet and then just cut a hole in the wall back into the shop that would suffice? Or rather than a whole use PVC in a bent sort of shape to return the air. Some thing like that?

    Chuck

  4. #4
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    Chuck,

    Jim actually built a rectangular return. Because any bend adds resistance to air flow, in the case of a "Z" shaped return, you 'd want it quite a bit larger than the incoming air duct.

    Check out this thread: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=6770
    Last edited by Ken Fitzgerald; 05-03-2009 at 11:02 PM.
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  5. #5

    Dust collection

    The return to the room/shop doesnt need to be any kind of pipe. It can be a piece of filter material hung rigidly in an square or rectangular hole on the inner wall to the shop. The material can help reduce noise, too, and yet another piece of cloth or carpeting can be hung inside like a curtain to capture even more noise.

    Some folks build a little closet outside the shop, with an exterior door for removal of chips and sawdust.

    Norm Koerner

  6. #6
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    Chuck,

    My shop is 30'x24' also. Check this thread out to see how Oneida and I designed my DC installation.

    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=77637


    Basically..my shop is 30' long North-South. My Oneida DC is in the S/W corner of the shop. The main pipe comes out of the DC going east and immediately forks. One fork goes to the west wall and then down behind my lathe.

    The other fork runs east along the south wall....and forks again.

    One fork goes along the ceiling up the middle of the shop and then drops down. This is my most used port. I have quick disconnects on my T/S, my B/S, my jointer, my planer and my disc/oscillating spindle sander. I switch the pipe to the machine I'm using.

    The remaining fork continues east along the south wall of my shop to the southeast corner and then turns north and runs along the east wall. This circuit is used on my SCMS.

    So...that's it.
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  7. #7
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    MY DC setup is a 2HP Oneida Super Gorilla. I have it in a 3 car garage. I have most of the tools set up so the runs to the collector are very short. The TS has a total duct length of 10 ft. The shaper only 4 ft, the planer is only 8 feet, and the Bandsaw is only 8 feet. The collector has a 7" port which I reduce to 6". I use 6" for the RAS, Jointer, Planer, and Drum sander. 5" to the TS lower port, shaper, and Bandsaw. The above table saw dust collector has a 4" port connected to a 3" flex hose.










  8. #8
    Chuck, the thread on my installation is here.

  9. #9
    Bill,

    I'm different than most people in that I have a large, 40 x 32, shop disconnected from my house by about 200 feet. But I'm in need of a garage for the cars and a free standing one can be built fairly cheaply, but an attached one is a little more expensive and much more of a hassle, and since it will be for cars I would like it attached.

    A detached workshop is cheaper and easier to build than an attached garage.

    Jimmy

  10. #10

    Dust collection

    I don't know why so many of you guys complain about the cost of tools and then turn around and spend over $1000 on dust collection. I had my former student, an engineering graduate of the Univ of IL, make a medium sized cyclone for under $120. Then I bought a 2-1/2 horse blower from Penn State for under $300. And the quality bags from that outfit in Florida. And for Pete's sake use the spiral pipe (under $20 for 10-foot sections in 6" diameter) and sweeping elbows to reduce drag.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Norm Koerner View Post
    I don't know why so many of you guys complain about the cost of tools and then turn around and spend over $1000 on dust collection. I had my former student, an engineering graduate of the Univ of IL, make a medium sized cyclone for under $120. Then I bought a 2-1/2 horse blower from Penn State for under $300. And the quality bags from that outfit in Florida. And for Pete's sake use the spiral pipe (under $20 for 10-foot sections in 6" diameter) and sweeping elbows to reduce drag.
    Sorry there Hoss. Not all of us are engineers.

    Chuck

  12. #12
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    Folks,

    Let's keep this on subject. This thread is here so that Chuck can get a look at your DC setups...not to hear your opinions on whether or not he should spend several thousands of dollars on a Dc or not or whether someone's lucky dog to have a free standing shop.
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  13. #13
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    International Falls, MN
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    there ya go Ken --- I deleted my words so all are happy I guess

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Norm Koerner View Post
    I don't know why so many of you guys complain about the cost of tools and then turn around and spend over $1000 on dust collection. I had my former student, an engineering graduate of the Univ of IL, make a medium sized cyclone for under $120. Then I bought a 2-1/2 horse blower from Penn State for under $300. And the quality bags from that outfit in Florida. And for Pete's sake use the spiral pipe (under $20 for 10-foot sections in 6" diameter) and sweeping elbows to reduce drag.
    Maybe many don't have access to your form student/engineer

  15. #15
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    One end of my run is the gated bandsaw. The upper and lower hoses use a single gate into one of the mains.

    1-BS-far-end.jpg

    The main runs about 5" off the floor and banded to the wall below my cleat mounted fixtures (clamps, hand tools, etc.). This floor area needs to stay clear to allow access to tools and clamps and raising the main a few inches created a toe kick space so that I really don't even notice it is there. The dual 45* fittings send me vertical through the two gated downspouts that serve the TS and RT.

    2-downspouts.jpg

    You can see the upper of the downspouts in the lower left. Here the main snakes around to provide the TS overarm (the overarm hose at the business end of the mast moves via a slip-fit from the hood to my RT fence as required. It's not as congested against the wall as it appears in 2-D. The snaking is to keep clearance for my breaker panel and position the main for a future branch up and across the ceiling.

    3-overarm.jpg

    The lower RT feed runs behind the TS and parallels the lower TS feed back to the two downspouts shown earlier.

    4-RT.jpg

    The Cyclone is positioned so that access to filter scrubber handles is clear and rolling the barrel out for emptying is too easy.

    5-dustbin.jpg

    Keep normal operations and DC maintenance in mind when laying out your runs, I lost count of how many revisions I went through before I got here. I did end up with plenty of leftovers once I stopped trying to route pipe all over the shop. The revelations came (since I am a little dense) once I was positioning the actual ducting; much easier to visualize with it in your hands.
    Last edited by glenn bradley; 05-04-2009 at 10:15 AM.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

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