[OP]
Member
This is what I wanted to see. I want to put mine together like this, with both the intake and the return facing the same way, so that I can run both the intake and the return through the same wall. If I put the filter in the shop, then I should prevent a negative pressure situation, correct? Thanks for the info guys! But keep the pics coming, I love to the what you guys have done to make your systems work.
You can see the mounting blocks between the cyclone and the wall. On this particular model, with intake and exhaust on the same side -and- with exhaust on the 'wall side', I required a 3" standoff to allow room for the filter. The length of the blocks was determined by stud locations.Originally Posted by Chuck Isaacson
John Keeton's install is a great example of making the unit fit your space. It sounds like you will have the unit in one room and pipe the airflow in and out through the wall so other mounting requirements may come into play but after getting through this I realize that the trepidation is more taxing than the actual install. A stand provides the most flexibility of placement but I could not give up the extra floorspace. HTH.
Last edited by glenn bradley; 05-04-2009 at 11:29 AM.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Contributor
Chuck, on the Oneida, and I am sure on the Grizzly, you can rotate the motor/impeller unit to achieve the direction you want - limited, of course, by clearance for the filter. However, if you are extending the discharge/exhaust pipe back into the shop area, then clearance shouldn't be an issue.
Keep in mind, however, that a good part of the sound of a DC comes from the exhaust, so putting the filter back in the shop area would cure the negative pressure, but not do so much for the noise. I am sure there would be some reduction, but probably not a lot.
[OP]
Member
Would one of those in-line mufflers help with the sound of the returning air?
Chuck
Contributor
Here is my shop rehap thread where I document my cyclone install. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...t=14427&page=2 The cyclone part starts at post 49.
If you can, try to have at least 5' of straight pipe as the ducting enters the cyclone. This helps with turbulence. Gentle turns also keep resistance down, which translates into more suction power at the tool. Jim.
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Hi Chuck,
If you want to hear a 3HP Grizzly run, you are welcome to come down to my shop in Oregon, just south of Madison. I don't think it is that loud, at least it does not bother me. Once I had sealed everything up tight--the noise diminished to the point that I just leave it run and can listen to the radio over the noise. Yes, I do have the radio turned-up a bit louder though.
My ducting is just PVC--readily available and low cost. I rent my shop space, so I didn't want to invest too much until I build a permanant shop.
Best,
Greg Stahl
Mine has the muffler (you can see it peeking out from behind the duct at the top of the filter) and I do not know that it made that much difference. I did not have the advantage of hearing it with, without, with, without as the hose needed to be cut to install it so my feelings are a bit subjective.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Member
They're not Grizzlys, but here are a few. Lot's of varied layouts.
http://www.gallery2.clearvuecyclones.com/main.php
Contributor
Another twist on a DC system. Mounted outside my shop in the main barn. Two motors & two fans, one pushing thru the cyclone one pulling. From there into a prefilter, and then back into the shop. I still have to build the final filter box. Shop built duct work. Short sections of Borg 30 ga piping. I get about 800 cfm at the drum sander.
The Plane Anarchist
Member
Putting the filter back into the room will prevent a negative air problem, it will also bring conditioned air (a/c or heat) back in to the room without much loss.
Good luck,
Jimmy
Member
Hmmmmmmmm. I've heard now from a couple of you that been using the 30ga duct from BORG's - ever any issue with strength Leigh ?
Contributor
I suggest you research John Keeton's installation. He used some 30 gauge and when the DC fired up, it flattened it.
Ken
So much to learn, so little time.....
Contributor
My shop is mostly 30 gauge ducting, the hangers are pieces of wood with a round, snug hole cut in them to hang them, and help them retain their shape.
I use two hangers per 5 foot length, breaking each length of pipe into 3 spaces. This helps the pipe resist collapse. (One end of each pipe has a rolled collar built in which reinforces the pipe as well).
My brothers shop is the same, mine has a 1.5 HP Oneida cyclone with external filter, his is 2 HP Oneida pro model.
A decade of service between them without issues.....Regards, Rod.
Contributor
I built most of my duct work out of 1/4 hardboard and 1/2 plywood, it holds up to the low pressure very well. I used 2 foot sections of 30 ga 6" dia pipe between fittings. So the longest pipe section I have is 2 feet. My system will flatted a 5' 30 ga pipe in a hearbeat if it is dead headed.
The Plane Anarchist
Member
Leigh any pics of your square( I assume) duct you built from 1/4" hard board and 1/2" ply?
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