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Thread: Trellis tips?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    Trellis tips?

    I need to make a couple of trellises (trelli?) for clematis in my garden. What recommendations do you have for materials (I'm guessing cedar) and joinery? I'd like them to be able to withstand the dead growth being pulled off in the spring, so sturdy is good. They will be mounted against the garage, and rectangular in shape. Thanks.

    Dan
    Eternity is an awfully long time, especially toward the end.

    -Woody Allen-

    Critiques on works posted are always welcome

  2. #2
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    Cedar or Cypress if left bare or finished clear. PTL if it will be painted. I'd use half-lap joinery.
    Cody


    Logmaster LM-1 sawmill, 30 hp Kioti tractor w/ FEL, Stihl 290 chainsaw, 300 bf cap. Solar Kiln

  3. #3
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    I made a Clematis trellis from a picture in a very expensive East Coast mail order catalog. I used AZEK. It machines easily and can be sawed, shaped, routed, etc and I used the AZEK cement and pocket hole screws for assembly. The pocket holes were filled with white RTV after assembly. It will always be white, has a woodgrain texture, never needs maintenance or painting.
    Kyle in K'zoo
    Screws are kinda like knots, if you can't use the right one, use lots of 'em.
    The greatest tragedy in life is the gruesome murder of a beautiful theory by a brutal gang of facts.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kyle Kraft View Post
    I made a Clematis trellis from a picture in a very expensive East Coast mail order catalog. I used AZEK. It machines easily and can be sawed, shaped, routed, etc and I used the AZEK cement and pocket hole screws for assembly. The pocket holes were filled with white RTV after assembly. It will always be white, has a woodgrain texture, never needs maintenance or painting.
    Kyle, got a picture???

    Dan
    Eternity is an awfully long time, especially toward the end.

    -Woody Allen-

    Critiques on works posted are always welcome

  5. #5
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    Can't you take a shot for clematis?

  6. #6
    I used cedar and stapled it together with my air staple gun. I chose staples that would almost go through both pieces. It's held up so far and it's been a number of years.

    Just rip the cedar to the width you need, lay out the grid and wack away with the staple gun. You can cut the thing square with a jig saw or a hand saw, or any saw of your choice. Could probably use a circular saw with a guide.

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  7. #7
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    Alas, no staple gun.

    Dan
    Eternity is an awfully long time, especially toward the end.

    -Woody Allen-

    Critiques on works posted are always welcome

  8. #8
    I had a couple small trellis' that were scrap oak and just held together by 2 1-1/4" brads in each joint. I did like Mike, rip to width, lay them across each other and nail 'em together. Held up well for 3 years with clematis, honeysuckle and other climbing plants.

    Just built a new free-standing trellis/arbor that I made out of PT lumber and just held together with deckscrews. We transplanted the plants listed above to the new arbor. Because the plants were so wrapped around the oak trellis pieces, I had to disassemble to save the plants. The brads did not want to pull out easily so I think they had a few years left to them.

    If you want a some extra strength then use half-laps but I don't think it's absolutely necessary unless it's part of the design element.
    * * * * * * * *
    Mark Patoka
    Stafford, VA
    * * * * * * * *

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Kalamazoo, MI
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    Trellis pictures

    Here are a couple shots of the AZEK trellis. Notice how it can be machined as easily as wood.
    trellis pictures 001.jpgtrellis pictures 002.jpg
    Kyle in K'zoo
    Screws are kinda like knots, if you can't use the right one, use lots of 'em.
    The greatest tragedy in life is the gruesome murder of a beautiful theory by a brutal gang of facts.

  10. #10

    trellis -

    the most important thing that everyone forgets - leave space BEHIND the trellis for good air circulation. I used 2" spacer blocks to create space behind a very large trellis upon which is growing an heirloom rose. I used 3/4" cedar which I ripped, but first made half-lap joints for, a dab of gorilla glue at the joints, and a staple shot in from the backside to keep everything in place until the glue dried. I covered the side of a pool-shed with this, 8' high by 14' wide, and included cutouts for 2 windows. The trellis has been in place now for over 10 years, roses are doing great, trellis is doing great. Another idea which I did not incorporate is to hinge the trellis at the bottom so you can get to the wall behind it for painting periodically. As I said, didn't do this, but my roses so cover the wall that it doesn't matter what the paint is doing behind the foliage. I've never had a problem with rust, powdery mildew or any other plagues of the roses, and I do think that the air circulation is key.

    Phil

  11. #11
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    Thanks for the tips, and to Kyle for posting the pic of his rather elegant example. Will see what's available locally for materials and go from there.

    Dan
    Eternity is an awfully long time, especially toward the end.

    -Woody Allen-

    Critiques on works posted are always welcome

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Kalamazoo, MI
    Posts
    781
    My trellis has about 1" clearance to the siding. Last night I looked in my snooty outdoor products catalog and the trellis shown in my post goes for $789 + S & H.
    Kyle in K'zoo
    Screws are kinda like knots, if you can't use the right one, use lots of 'em.
    The greatest tragedy in life is the gruesome murder of a beautiful theory by a brutal gang of facts.

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