I was in the shop and no project in the works so got a little carried away on the push stick thing. Oh well, my wife says it is hers now so I may never get to use it!! Cut from 3/4 plywood. Was fun, anyway.
DSCN0186.jpg
I was in the shop and no project in the works so got a little carried away on the push stick thing. Oh well, my wife says it is hers now so I may never get to use it!! Cut from 3/4 plywood. Was fun, anyway.
DSCN0186.jpg
We make these by the dozens in different thicknesses on our CNC. Better than a store-bought item since you can cut into it without losing $ (buying 100/yr would get pretty expensive). Easy to modify the depth of the heel for cutting thin stock. Just rip a slot in it for cutting narrow strips.
We call them disposable hands.
IMO a stick-shaped push device like the one illustrated in the sawstop manual are ineffective, borderline dangerous. A shoe-shaped device is much more effective since it can hold stock DOWN and push it forward.
pushsticks.jpg say no.jpg
Last edited by Kevin Groenke; 11-08-2012 at 10:01 PM.
Here is the one I made that I use for all cuts and it allows me to do very thing rips without my hands getting close to the blade; also works for different thickness:
thin-rip.JPG
It's on my older saw but you can build one for most fences; my current one is on a sawstop fence.
Here are ones I use:
The only problem I see is it looks like you would be asking for a kickback. If you have say a 5" board you are ripping you are pushing it from the side and not in the center or near the blade and the down pressure would not be even and could only be at the end of the board.
True enough - but - IMHO, the "stick" type look meaner when you draw or paint an open mouth/teeth design (ala Flying Tigers) on them .IMO a stick-shaped push device like the one illustrated in the sawstop manual are ineffective, borderline dangerous. A shoe-shaped device is much more effective since it can hold stock DOWN and push it forward.
The pusher type look like a squashed Pac Man thingie...
or some kinda Angry Bird wannabe...
I know what you are saying Bill, but:
- I always keep the board pushed against the fence from left side of the board
- Use a properly aligned riving knife supplied with my saw,
- I push the board with hand at the beginning and use the push stick in the last section of the cut (push stick is on the fence above the board and the board is riding below it and once it passes the push stick and it drops down I push with push stick)