The wedge on my camp axe recently loosened, broke and fell out during less than 20 minutes of use, so I'm looking to improve my technique. I re-handled the axe in 2001 (I mark all my handles) and it lasted fine in very moderate use until 2007 or so. Since then, I've had to replace the wedges two or three times, at least once for every hour of real use. I use only one wooden wedge (in the traditional direction), and haven't played around with using metal cross wedges. Are the metal wedges worth it, or do I just need to improve the way I'm doing the one wedge? I've heard people caution not to use cross wedges, as they don't help and can cause the handle to break more easily, anyone have experience with doing it one way or the other?
The gransfors splitting axe I bought a few years back has one cross wedge in addition to the main one, and that's without a doubt the best handling job I've ever seen on a purchased axe.
Just so there's no confusion, I'm doing my wedges like this:
(-----------)
And I'm wondering if it's worth doing them like this:
(-----/-----)
Or like this:
(---/---\---)
If either of the latter, would you pre-cut these areas on the bandsaw to allow the wedges (metal or wood) in, or would you just pound them in (metal)?
Also, does anyone use wood glue on their wedges?
Just to make it available, here are some of the tips I would offer on axe rehandling:
#1 - Buy or make a handle with grain running in the same direction as the length of the head. Try to get as many continuous lines all the way up and down the front/back of the handle as possible. This will dramatically increase the lifespan of your handle.
#2 - Make sure that the handle, especially the head area, is bone dry when you fit it to the head, that way it can only swell wider in use and should stay tight better.
#3 - When seating the handle into the head, hold the axe in one hand, free hanging, and rap the bottom of the handle with a wooden mallet repeatedly. This will seat it much tighter and more easily than trying to bang the head down around it.
#4 - Use graphite or chalk on the inside of the axe head to tell you where the handle needs stock removal when fitting. Go really slow here as it's easy to take too much off too fast (files not sanders etc.)
#5 - Store bought wedges are almost always entirely too thick to function correctly, you can often bandsaw them and get two good wedges from one.
#6 - Always leave at least 1/4" of handle protruding from the top of the axe head when you're done. Most axe heads aren't internally tapered correctly, so this is necessary to give the wedged area the physical shape it needs to hold. Why companies trim them flush at the factory is beyond me.
Hope this last part was helpful, and that someone can give me their thoughts on the cross wedges.
Thanks,
Andy