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Thread: Veritas grinder tool rest jig

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Richmond, VA
    Posts
    664

    Veritas grinder tool rest jig

    I bought a Veritas bench grinder tool rest and guide. I've spent a few hours messing with it and for the most part I am well pleased (definitely an improvement over my shop-made setup). My question to those of you that use this system, is there a more straightforward method of setting the grinding angle? Has anyone constructed a carriage device to allow moving from grinding to honing without removing the tool being sharpened from the guide? (That may be too far out....) Finely, any tips or tricks for using this system?

    Many thanks! -Jerry

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Spring, Texas
    Posts
    578
    Jerry,

    I have the same setup, and I'm a bit disappointed with the jig. A blade is supposed to register against the pin and the hold down screw and be straight. It's actually off several degrees. I think it's due to the threads not being a solid reference like the pin. I now have a small engineers square that I hope will help get the blades set properly.

    Setting the angle has never been a real issue for me. After a couple of times, it's pretty fast. I also look at the blade after a little touch on the wheel and see where I am. If I'm grinding too close the the edge, I make the angle a little steeper, and vise versa. That will also tell you if it's in straight.

    I read another tip that may help. Instead of dressing your wheel flat, make a slight crown on it. That way, the corners don't stay in contact with the wheel longer than the rest of the blade. It helps to keep from getting the tips on the corners too hot.

    As for going from the rest to the stone, I don't think there's anything currently available for this particular system.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Tidewater, VA
    Posts
    540
    I have not really refined this approach but here is a way of using the MK II honing guide in tandem with their grinding tool rest. In a nut shell what I have found is that without the roller assembly the MK II fits in the slot of the tool rest pretty well.

    Remove the MK II roller assembly.

    Mount the iron in the MK II and set the blade extension for your bevel using the MK II jig – tighten the clamp bar.

    Place the MK II in the grinder tool rest slot with the back edge of the lower blade clamp resting against the back edge of the slot. You can also use the front edge but must be mindful that the bearing edge on the front of the clamp is not very thick.

    Adjust the tool rest to the correct position and grind the bevel.

    When done reattach the roller using the correct mounting hole.

    Double check how the edge is contacting the stone – and hone.

    You can’t use this method to grind much because you will be moving the edge back from your original setting. You can however mount the blade a tad past the jig setting to allow for this.

    I have been a little disappointed with the grinder rest because it has more flex than I expected. Be careful with forward pressure. Also be sure that your hand plane blades have parallel sides.

    Most of the older blades I have taper so you can’t register them properly using the edge of the MK II jig or the two pins on the grinder tool holder. You can correct for this by drawing a series of parallel lines on a board and checking the blade edge against this reference with the jig against the edge of the board.

    Too much fiddling? You bet! Presently I am freehand grinding and honing more – a long way to go but I am using the honing guide and the grinder tool holder a lot less.



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    Men occasionally stumble over the truth, but most of them pick themselves up and hurry off as if nothing ever happened.
    - Churchill

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