Dust collection at a table saw in a small shop and the 50-760

[Brad Ridgway]

I ran all the calcs using airhand.com guide today and looks like i can't do what i had hoped this unit. So i'm willing to take any tips / suggestions...


Currently i have it in "closet" and run flex hose to single points of use as need and it works great and the flex is short in nearly all cases.

However after getting coated in birch ply and mdf dust at the TS (a pm66) for the last two years, i was hoping to add overhead collection (currently building the unit and will post pics when done - a spin off of a shopnotes topic and some threads here and my own thinking). However the collector and the TS are far apar so i'd have to get up to the ceiling and back down + the distance. This alone actually would be under the 8 inches / water rating of the unit, but if i want to wye off and continue using the cabinet collection, i exceed the 8SP rating (namely because i have to go far enough over /down not to interfere with ripping capactity (plus (2) 90's and then a run of flex hose) even if i use a 5 or 6" main line to the wye.

My options as i see them (ya i'd love a cyclone, not in the budget unless i win one in a drawing here)...


1) I could approach with an either or apporach at the table saw. Use the cabinet port when dadoing and just the overhead collection in other cases. The latter would let dust pile in the cabinet. The piling doesn't matter, but the escape of the finer dust would seem to defeat the purpose? I have a nice fine whitish film all over the saw around the gaps and holes where it comes out even when the collector is on....

2) i could try to move the collector outside pretty close to the right hand side of the saw. this could cut the straight pipe length down such to get the SP below 8, but increases the lengths i need to my other point of use (inter changable gap between counters for router table, planer, cms, etc). I would probably be ok for those items (though i was thinking of adding a swapable downdraft to the same location. My exterior wall is block , so cutting a 20" filter slot for return air isn't an option as it would be in a framed location and the shop is A/C'd so when in use i'd be sucking out the conditioned air if i do this and bring in the hot and humid stuff...


Keeping in mind that i tend to rip a lot of sheet good and the dust in the face is probably my bigger concern, i sortof think the first is the easier / cheaper option.... but what would you guys do?

thx in advance
-brad

[David Christopher]

Brad, I have a ZC insert in my TS and was getting dust all over me when I cut anything...I didnt want the overblade dust collection so I drilled small holes in my ZCI and now my DC takes the dust down through the holes insted of throughing in my face

[David Hostetler]

Keeping in mind that i tend to rip a lot of sheet good and the dust in the face is probably my bigger concern, i sortof think the first is the easier / cheaper option.... but what would you guys do?

thx in advance
-brad

Just FWIW, I don't rip / crosscut whole sheet goods on the TS. Even with good outfeed support, it is still dangerously unwieldy... I would suggest using a good circ saw with a good blade and cutting guide... Preferrably making your cuts outside of your shop, wearing a decent respirator...

My respirator rig oddly enough is the same one that Marc Spagnulo listed on The Wood Whisperer not too long ago...

3M #7503 Large Half Mask Facepiece
3M 2091 Series 2000, P100 Particulate Filter use w/ Series 6000 Respirator, (Pk/2)
3M 502 2-Pack Black Cartridges for OV Organic Vapor
3M Respirator Filter Adapter - 502

(Sorry, not all the links are for lowest price, or free shipping, dig around a bit...)

I replaced a 3M 6200 series respirator facepiece with all the same tack ons that I have been using since the mid 1990s with this... I must say the 7503 is MUCH more comfortable.. Probably a factor of age, flexibility...

On the DC and table saw issue...

Keep your runs as straight and short as possible, Eliminate as much flex hose as you can, and that trick the other poster (sorry I am bad with names and don't want to click BACK) said about drilling some vent holes in a ZCTP works. I have a Shark guard, and honestly, I keep forgetting to hook the shop vac to it... The holes in the TP give plenty of air flow to suck the dust out of hte space in the blade guard...

Mind you, if you have a badly designed blade guard, AND a ZCTP, you are almost guaranteed to get sprayed with dust...

[Philip Rodriquez]

I have an overhead blade-guard and I'll tell you that you are on the right track. I put off purchasing one since it really isn’t a tool. Now that I have one, I don’t know how I lived without it.

While your cutting sheet goods, do you put your stock blade guard back on? It will force more dust below the table. As for the person that cut holes in his ZC insert, don’t do it. Doing so would only help if you don’t cover all the holes - It won’t do a darn thing for you while cutting sheet goods.

If cost is a concern, I like your first idea. After all, the dust in your face is your biggest health risk. You will be amazed at how much dust these things capture. Maybe you can run it off a wye and blast-gate the cabinet and just cycle back and forth to reduce the dust buildup.

[Matt Tawes]

Get an overhead guard. I've used this one for the last 4-5yrs: http://www.leestyron.com/sharkguard.php and you can all but shut off the under blade blast gate for your vac. (of course I have a cyclone so I have pretty good flow but a shop vac would probably to the same thing). I'm sure they've gone up some over the years but its a great little setup and with a splitter.
I personally almost never cut sheet goods on the TS anymore. I've had a Festool saw/guide and vac. for over 4yrs. (EZ smart would work just as well) and its far more efficient, safe, easy and dust free. But when I'm ripping tons of rails, stiles or planks for gluing up tops that bladeguard with vac. and splitter is invaluable leaving little dust on the saw and better yet in my face or the floor.