John, I'm with you on SU vs pencil and paper.Originally Posted by John Keeton
Mark, I'm enjoying the thread.
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have either of you guys learned to use SU or at least seen the capabilities of the program?
im old school beyond my age when it comes to working with wood however once i saw what SU could do for me i saw that it could improve my design/redisign/build projects by making them quicker, simplier, more detailed and more acessable to both of us. i can work out complicated layouts with mutiple views to build from are much easier to do.
the program helps both myself and my clients better understand what we ars getting into with our project. quick redraws or mutiple angle views of a complicated piece are easy to do and come out looking very professional.
i still hand draw a perspective view of the piece for the client but its mostly for astectics and some day when im long dead and gone hopefully they will make the pieces that i built worth more.
with a very shallow learning curve(it took me 3 weeks to learn 99% of the program) it is worth a second deeper look and im sure you could find some aspect of the program that could benefit you and your woodworking.
S.M.Titmas.
"...I had field experience, a vocabulary and a criminal mind, I was a danger to myself and others."
-Anthony Bourdain
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Not to hijack this thread, but I have used SU and know it's capabilities. In addition, I've been a computer user dating back to the days of file cards on "mainframes." For me at this moment in time I don't have the three weeks you mention to learn the software. Since my only client is me, I don't need to worry about dazzling my clients. In fact most of my projects are done without any drawings. I let the wood and my eye for design dictate the piece. Sure I realize that this isn't the "best" way to design, but it works for me. I can visualize designs in 3-D without drawing them in SU.
Now back to the OP's table. It's coming along very well. Walnut is one of my favorite woods to use. I'm looking forward to the rest of this build.
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Sean, Don pretty much nailed my feelings on this. I have been computer literate since 1982.
Besides, it is so much easier to see one's mistakes in real time!!And, much more fun than seeing them in a graphic display!
[OP]
Member
Ok, fellas, I'm hijacking my thread back with more in progress pics. LOL
I applied the first two coats of Bush Oil to the bottom and sides this past weekend. I'm a bit late with this pic, but had a bit of a migraine flare up Sunday. Here it is dry after said first two coats.
tabletop_bottom_finish01.JPG
Glad I started with the bottom. I learned something - open pore woods like walnut need a second wipe off of the excess oil. My wife asked about this at the time and I was forced to admit to her that she was right today after re-watching Mr. Bush's DVD.
Hopefully my wet sanding at 400 grit (wet with more Bush Oil) today will iron out any issues. If not, well, that surface is planned to be the bottom anyhow. I'm going to be finishing the finish of the tabletop this week and start working on the rest of the desk this coming weekend.
Speaking of open pored woods, it's time to go for another wipe down.
Contributor
Mark, you are permitted under the TOS to interrupt your own thread at any time to post progress
I don't know anything about Bush Oil, but does he talk about using pumice as a grain filler on the walnut?
[OP]
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He claims that wet sanding at 400 grit (what I sanded to before first two finish coats) with more finish fills the pores.
My wife liked the first design better than the second in my design thread. She also mentioned that she liked Mission. Deciding that she was referring to something other than operational units of fire and maneuver, I used Google to remedy (partially) my ignorance of historical furniture styles. I then used Google Sketchup again and I think I have a winner. Since more design comments were made here than in the design thread, the new pic goes here too.
I doubt you'll be able to notice, but I also changed the carcass so that the tabletop extends 1/2" in the back instead of the original 1/4" to accommodate floor molding and still be pretty flush to the wall. This took about 10 minutes to change lengths and move parts appropriately.
laptop_desk_design006.jpg
I still need to do the drawers and joinery. It looks like I also need a mortise machine. I also need to decide what woods to use, namely, will maple look funky for the bottom. It will be a walnut apron with cherry drawer fronts (and cherry inside aprons - got a bunch of 20" cherry shorts I feel compelled to use). Hmmm... maybe walnut bottom with cherry slats to tie everything together?
Also, I need to decide how important it is for me to hide endgrain with fancy joinery vs. getting the piece done in a timely manner using joinery commensurate with my meager skill and experience.
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IMHO:::
Hiding endgrain isn't important. Proper finishing of endgrain is important.
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Shawn is right, covering the end grain is not as important as proper scraping/sanding of the end grain.
IMO, a bread board end would fit the style nicely and it is definitely not "fancy".
S.M.Titmas.
"...I had field experience, a vocabulary and a criminal mind, I was a danger to myself and others."
-Anthony Bourdain
[OP]
Member
First execution problem. Some finish dribbled down the sides and pooled underneath the piece while I was finishing its bottom and the top has some little blister bits. I applied a single coat of Bush Oil hoping I could work the blobs back into solution with the oil but it didn't work very well.
My thought is to go back to the ROS at 220 grit and sand them off once the current layer dries. Then I can hand sand back to 400 and start over again.
The DVD I have by Bill Bush regardin the application of Bush Oil suggests using foam brushes to apply the oil. I think that maybe I apply too much oil this way and I might go back to using t-shirt cloth for application in addition to wiping dry when done.
Any suggestions on the removal of these finish blisters are welcome.
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