Hi All,
So I've followed the cap iron threads, seen the Japanese video, and read David W's article along with the other camp's views. I've tried it and it works well for me in controlling tear out, not too problematic in getting set up (gets faster with practice), so it is the standard on my #4 and have used it on my #7 on occasion.
I got a nearly new WR#3, V3, from the classifieds on SM creek to give to my 9 yr old for Christmas. I just got around to tuning it for him a couple of nights ago and by default, set the cap iron close. Then I found a problem with the cap iron - when the cap iron is set to a hair less than 1/64" (magnifying glass measurement) the iron will not extend to below the sole. The cap iron is against the lever cap screw. To get shavings, the cap iron needs to be at least 1/16" back from the cutting edge. The pictures illustrate the problem.
WR3 cap iron (2.0).jpgWR3 cap iron (2.1).jpgWR3 cap iron (2.2).jpgWR3 cap iron (2.3).jpgWR3 cap iron (2.4).jpgWR3 cap iron (2.5).jpgWR3 cap iron (2.6).jpgWR3 cap iron (2.7).jpg
I saw a review on the Woodcraft page complaining of the same problem. I went by the local Woodcraft store and they pulled a new one apart and it had the same issue. We got a new Hock cap iron out and compared - it was 3/32" to 1/8" longer from the cap iron screw hole to the leading edge. I called customer service last night based on the store's recommendation and they referred me to tech support so I'll try them Monday. It appears to me they have a QC problem.
Has anyone had this problem? If so, how has Woodcraft handled it?
William