First Project, Need Advise

[Brandon Borge]

As a fresh-from-the-womb woodworker, I have a glaring need of a workbench and a power tool organizer, and I don't have a lot of space. So, I want to make a cabinet big enough to hold several power tools, with a work surface on top, and locking casters on the bottom. I expect to build a "real" workbench down the road, but I need something to get me started, and I need some help with the design to make sure everything is sound. Since it's my first project I want this to be as inexpensive as possible, but not something that's going to fall apart!!

It starts with a 3/4" piece of plywood for the base, with four casters (not shown in the pictures) screwed into the bottom. The two side panels sit on top of the base, nestled in 3/4" rabbets. Would it be better to do a 1/2" rabbet on the base instead, along with a 1/4" rabbet on the sides, to form kind of a lap joint? (Is there a real term for that?) I would secure this joint with glue, and use screws (from the bottom up) to help hold it in place initially. The back panel would be 1/4" plywood, and would sit in a 1/4" rabbet cut from both side panels and the base. Again, this would be attached with glue, and probably an 18 gauge brad nailer. The face frame would be glued and nailed to the front edges of the two sides and the base, unless there will be a problem with movement?

You can see from the fourth picture that there isn't a lot of "face" for the work surface to sit on top of. Will I need to shore that up? If so, how? Approximate outer dimensions of the carcass, including the face frame, are 36" x 23 1/4", and the work surface is 40" x 28". I don't want a central support in front, because the two shelves need to be able to slide out. How would you attach the top?

I'm also thinking about making a bigger work surface. How much of a lip would you guys leave? Right now I've got two inches all the way around; is that enough to clamp on to? I like the 28" depth because that will fit through most doors, but since this will probably always be in a garage it likely won't matter if I go bigger. At the very least I was thinking about extending one end another eight inches or so in case I want to add a bench vise later, or some shelves/hangers on the side.

My final questions (for now!) are regarding materials. I will probably prime and paint everything. I've seen a lot of people use a double layer of 3/4" MDF for the surface. If I use that, I would have enough left from the sheet to make the doors out of MDF too. Thoughts on that? What kind and grade of plywood for the carcass, and is there a good way to make sure what I get from the lumber yard is flat? What about for the face frame (poplar, maple, birch)? Last, since the face frame extends inward, the shelf slides need to be effectively shimmed as well. Can I just stack and glue a couple pieces of plywood together, making sure the screws for the slides go through plywood faces and not the edges?

I apologize for the length and number of my questions; there's a lot of self doubt going on here! I expect a lot of learning by doing, but the more advise I can get up-front the better off I will be. Thanks everybody!

Edit: Okay I lied, one more question. The shelves are 32 inches wide, but only 21-22 inches long. Will that be a problem? I've read that slide manufacturers recommend that the width not exceed the length. One shelf will hold a router (two bases); the other will hold a circular saw, power drill, random orbital sander, and maybe 1-2 other power tools. All in plastic cases.

[Mark Kosmowski]

If you're going to be doing woodworking on this, you probably don't want to paint it. The paint might migrate to whatever work you have on the bench which could lead to finishing problems.

This looks to be much more advanced joinery than my first shop project was. Glad to see you willing to take the plunge!

For attaching the top I'd run an apron around the whole top, with many supports inside to keep the MDF flat.

I'm sure others will chime in with more ideas.

Welcome to the hobby and the forum! Best of luck with your bench!

[sean m. titmas]

if your going to be doing a lot of work with this bench i suggest you make it with strong solid wood legs and a double layer mdf top with a solid wood apron for strength and flatness. if you need a cabinet for storage you can add it in separate from the legs so that you dont sacrifice any strength. a plywood box with a 1/4" back will not provide much in the way of strength for sawing, planing and choping, especially along the front edge where the plywood is on the flat.

[Todd Burch]

As designed, that thing won't last 1 year. With the weight it will employ, it' will be too rickety, especially since it will be pushed and shoved around on casters. Your design relies too much on gravity - with your sides sitting on the base like that. A butt joint, even glued and screwed, in plywood, is a lousy joint.

My advice would be to start over.

[Jamie Buxton]

That looks like a good starter project. Some thoughts...

Use plywood, not MDF. Plywood sags less than MDF, and holds screws and glue better.

That fancy double-rabbet joint at the bottom isn't necessary. Rabbeting at the corner mostly just registers the two parts while you're gluing up.

Do glue the back around all four edges. The back prevents wracking of the box.

Put a 1x2 or the like at the top of the back. This gives fastening surface for the back and the top.

I'd just screw and glue the top to the rest of the box. The screws go through the top from the outside. Flat-head screws, countersunk. It is a work bench, not a dining table.

[Jamie Buxton]

Second reading...

You talk about shelves, which I presume are fixed. Later you talk about the shelves sliding. Which is it? And you have sliding doors, so the shelves can't slide. I'm confused.

[Brandon Borge]

I appreciate the input so far, that's what I'm here for! As they say, there are a million and one ways to skin a cat. What do I have to lose besides a few bucks on materials, and maybe a finger or two? Good observation regarding possible paint transfer. I'll keep it confined to the cabinet areas below.

Jamie, the doors are hinged. The shelves slide in and out like drawers would, on slides similar to this. I'm only thinking about MDF for the doors and tabletop. You'd recommend using plywood instead for those pieces?

I should clarify my intended use. As an actual work bench, I would likely only build 2 or 3 projects on it before upgrading to a full-scale bench. This would be just enough to get my feet wet until I know what I really want out of a bench. After that it would become just a rolling cabinet with a tabletop for light-duty stuff, though the tool storage would stay.

Although it won't hold a LOT of weight (about 25 pounds on the top shelf, and possibly up to 50 pounds on the bottom), I see Todd's concerns about pushing and pulling it around. I would like to keep the general look and feel (I'm going for something along these lines), so I don't want to make any real drastic, sweeping changes, but I'll see if I can come up with something to make it a little more stable. One big downside is that I'm trying really hard to keep it under about 34" tall while still being able to fit the tools inside, which limits my options.

[glenn bradley]

So, I want to make a cabinet big enough to hold several power tools, with a work surface on top, and locking casters on the bottom.

This was my first project. I wanted it to be my last project built on the floor. I supplied 3 positions for the vise (not shown in the pics) so it could be moved about as required (remember this was my storage, workbench and assembly table at the time). Pullout bins and drawers. Overhanging top for clamping and locking casters on all corners.

I expected it to get me through the first year. It is still in use and probably will be for awhile. These two pictures are about a year apart. I made the hardboard top easy to replace but I've been banging on this things for 5 years and it is still fine.

The casters mount to 1/2" blocks that mount to the 3/4" ply base with carriage bolts. I've learned a thing or two about casters here and elsewhere over the years. I have some new ones to use once I get around to it. The ones I got a "great price" on are a pain to lock and I can stand them now only because I generally don't need to lock them anymore as the role of this cabinet has changed.

Top is 1/2" ply laminated to 3/4" ply with the frame setting proud to capture the 1/4" hardboard top sheet. The back is 1/2" ply, the balance is 3/4" MDF. Dado and rabbet construction. Borg 1-by pine for drawer parts (amazed that they still work). Full extension slides on the bins and the bottom drawer, 3/4 slides for the other drawers (I learned that there is no place in a shop for 3/4 drawer slides and have not used them since). False front drawers with some knobs I picked up cheap. The knobs are not a problem with snagging cords but if they were no well back from the top's edge I would use something that would not grab your cords. I list all this info not because I think this is the design for you . . . but just to give you ideas for your own cabinet.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachme...3&d=1232662995

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachme...5&d=1203399334

[Jamie Buxton]

I'm only thinking about MDF for the doors and tabletop. You'd recommend using plywood instead for those pieces?

MDF sags more than plywood of the same thickness. I would not use it for the top. I'd use plywood.

[sean m. titmas]

MDF sags more than plywood of the same thickness. I would not use it for the top. I'd use plywood.

double layer mdf torsion box, laminated with glue, and supported with a 1x4 apron and stretchers will withstand any abuse you can throw at it. plywood tends to warp and the surface does not take errant chisel strike well whereas mdf remains perfectly flat and can take sharp edges without showing much damage.

[Brandon Borge]

I like that one, Glenn! It sounds like your goals were similar to mine. It definitely gave me a few ideas, and hopefully a little insight in a couple of other areas as well.

Several people suggested adding more stability, which isn't at all surprising, so I have modified my existing design. Based on previous feedback it should be considerably more stable than before, though probably not as solid as you all would prefer.

One picture shows the new structure for the base (it's upside down). The sides and back no longer sit on the plywood base. Instead, I pulled the ends down a little and connected the base to the sides with dadoes.

Then, as shown in another picture, I added some 2x4's underneath the base (the front one is probably unnecessary). This will allow me to effectively screw or bolt the base to the vertical panels, which should make for a considerably stronger connection.

Last, I attached some 2x4's around the top. As much as I'd like to orient the front piece the same as the other three, doing so would force me to give up nearly two inches to the overall height, which I'm trying desperately to avoid. Still, I'm hopeful that this will be sufficient. The "hole" in the middle is 17 by 31 1/2 inches.

So, fire away!

[glenn bradley]

Isn't it great when you can incorporate new ideas before you are half done building something? My pics don't show it and I did not mention it but your first pic reminded me. The skirt effect of the sides continuing on past the bottom can cause you grief when trying to get to your caster locking mechanism depending on the style. I will also add (long winded today I guess) that unless it is a drawer on full extension slides, I find that shelves/drawers deeper than 18" seem to create hiding places for items I will never use (or I buy another one of) because I can't find them. Just a couple more things to think over .

[Mark Kosmowski]

One other thing to consider is to make this the same height as either your tablesaw or radial arm saw to be used as infeed / outfeed support in a pinch.

[glenn bradley]

One other thing to consider is to make this the same height as either your tablesaw or radial arm saw to be used as infeed / outfeed support in a pinch.

Mark is absolutely right. I don't know how I missed that. Very important. Good one Mark!

[Brandon Borge]

I definitely did consider use as an infeed/outfeed table when I was coming up with a design, but since I unfortunately don't have any of those kinds of tools yet, I decided not to worry about it too much.