Anyone using twist drills in their Brace?

[Jeff Myer]

I recently picked up a box of bits from my brace and along with the countersink bits that I was really after, I found a good selection of standard twist drill bits with a square drive to fit in my brace. The sizes are in the 3/16-5/16 range.

My initial thought was that twist drills would typically require higher speed than I can provide with a brace. Perhaps these are to be used in something else.

Anyone out their using this type of bit in their braces? How is it working?

Of course I do realize that I could just pop one of these in my brace and try to drill some holes but I am interested in knowing more of the intended use for this type of bit. Would they typically be for wood or metal etc.

I can post pics if anyone is interested.

[harry strasil]

I occassionally use some old square tapered shank drill bits in a brace, there are 2 distinct types, ones for wood only that have a lot more taper to the cutting edge than bits of today and ones with a taper like today that were made for metal.

[Stephen Shepherd]

I would never admit to it in public, but I have a small collection of twist drill bits, most marked Winchester that I will use on occasion. I have an 1/8" and 3/16" that are most handy for smaller holes.

I have some sharpened both ways.

Stephen

[Jim Koepke]

If they are sharpened properly, speed is not necessary.

jim

[Mike Henderson]

I've used twist drills with a brace, but since I have a cordless drill now, I mostly use it instead of the brace.

Mike

[Steve Thomas]

I use twist drills in a brace all the time. Just the normal ones round shank.... I just have to make sure it's fairly tight so they don't slip.

You will have no trouble using them... bore away.

[Derek Cohen]

Yep. I have, in fact, built two braces just for this purpose. Both have a 5" throw.

The first one ..



And the recent one ...



And for fun, here is a drill drilling (what will be) a drill so as to do some drilling ... what was that?!



I did a bit of research on grinding shapes, but really could not find anything at all. I just use standard twist bits. Any references available?

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Dave Matson]

The square shanked twist drills work great for breast drills that only have a two-jaw chuck like many of the Millers Falls drills with Barber or Master chucks. If you use round shanks with them they will often seize up in the wood and the chuck will spin around since it doesn't have enough grip on the bit.

[george wilson]

Drills with a cutting edge on their margin will start cleaner holes than ordinary metal type drills. If you have a narrow grinding wheel,it isn't too difficult to regrind metal type drills into brad point types. Just be careful to use the original centers and outer corners of the lips as guides when re pointing them. Save a little bit of the original centers and outer corners when re grinding,and grind them away at the very last,to keep your drills cutting on true centers.

[Rob Luter]

I keep a couple eggbeaters for use with twist drills. If I have quite a number of holes to drill I'll use my Bosch cordless. As it is a non-tailed tool I can rationalize using it in a Neo-Neander sort of way (anyone buying this )

[Noah Wagener]

for drilling metal is the egg beater preferred to a brace provided the brace has a three jaw chuck and can hold the drills?

What is the traditional shaped drill for using on metal and what was used to turn it?

cool brace Derek.

[ian maybury]

Good quality (as in sharp) brad points will cut cleanly at the hand powered RPMs. Egg beater type drills as the guys and as in Derek's picture are very good for drilling smaller holes in wood or metal where there's not a lot of torque required - they give excellent control of alignment...

[Stew Denton]

Hi all,

They used to make a modern style chuck that holds round shank twist steel bits that would chuck into a brace. It had a square shank, so it would fit into the chuck of a brace like a bit, and then you could use that chuck to hold a twist steel bit.

I have one, but have not used it yet. I thought it might be handy at times. Mine has a problem with one of the springs that keeps the jaws spread, and I have not taken the time to take it apart and try to fix it yet.

Stew

[Peter Evans]

I would never admit to it in public, but I have a small collection of twist drill bits, most marked Winchester that I will use on occasion. I have an 1/8" and 3/16" that are most handy for smaller holes.

I have some sharpened both ways. Stephen

Welcome Back Stephen, good to see you posting again.
Cheers
Peter

[harry strasil]

Most old bits were carbon steel, and if they are sharp they will drill an automotive leaf spring if the drill speed is slow enough and the right amount of pressure is used. Traditionally and before so called post drills came into use, the palm bowl was removed on a special heavy or cast brace and a point on the pushed end was used with a wooden or an iron overarm was like a fulcrum with an adjustable weight or pulled to apply a steady pressure on the bit while the brace was turned by hand by a srong apprentice. there is a good example of this procedure in the book A DICTIONARY of AMERICAN HAND TOOLS by Alvin Sellens pg.72.

































Stew,a bll point spring works well whencut to length for a replacement.











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