Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 24

Thread: Bead board/chair rail question....

  1. #1

    Bead board/chair rail question....

    Howdy,

    Is there a generally accepted height for bead board paneling with a chair rail cap??? We are redoing our main bath...again... and LOML wants bead board part way up the walls capped by chair rail.

    Also, is there a generally accepted method of ending the beadboard/chair rail into the existing tile around the tub/shower??? I assume one would just make some sort of cap moulding??????

    TIA,

    Terry

  2. #2
    Terry,

    When we moved into our 1909 house the beadboard in the bath was a bit higher than you would use for a "chair" rail - although that was how it was capped. The beadboard went all the way around the room - taking the place of tile, I guess - since the tub is a clawfoot that stood away from the wall. Instead of going right up to the tile, you might try running the cap along that edge a couple of inches from the tile - sort of framing the beadboard.

    Bob
    Spinning is good on a lathe, not good in a Miata.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Toronto, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    3,789
    I don't know about "generally accepted height", but I put bead board with a cap rail into our laundry room and adjacent loo last winter and the height is 32 inches. The proportions look good.

  4. #4
    Bob,

    Thanks!!! I had not thought of stopping the beadboard before the tile. I like that "framing" idea.

    t

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Chappell Hill, Texas
    Posts
    4,349
    36" 36" 36" 36" 36" 36" 36" 36"


  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Todd Burch
    36" 36" 36" 36" 36" 36" 36" 36"


    Todd,


    Hmmmm...it's a bit unclear to me but I think you mean 36"????

    The sheetrock is really not good in this room. More patches that actual rodk. When we stripped off the wallpaper, we remembered why there was wall paper there in the first place. I'd like to cover as much of it as I can. 36" will be OK. That only leave me 5' of wall to fix.

    t

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Lancaster, PA
    Posts
    1,363
    Terry,
    I think Todd meant 36". The dimension is derived partly by material utilization - 8' ply or boards divided into three plus the base and chair rail height. All of the DIY chair rail systems I designed for my former employer were 36" finished height. That said, as Bob mentioned, I have installed it higher (just shy of 48") for a more period look - victorian to be exact. It was used in bathrooms and kitchens as a functional surface to take water and abuse versus the plaster. The final installation was painted the same color as the walls (only in egg shell) so it became a texture versus a bold statement.

    FWIW, Wes

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Toronto, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    3,789
    Quote Originally Posted by Todd Burch
    36" 36" 36" 36" 36" 36" 36" 36"

    Well Todd seams slightly less tentative with his answer than I was with mine. So, he must he right.

    But, I expect that there is no hard and fast rule. In our dinning room, I put a railing at 44" along with with 3.5" tongue and grove boards and a very wide baseboard at the bottom. I did all this in order to give the room the "older home" look.

  9. #9
    We did our girl's room last year with the pre-grooved sheets of "beadboard". The sheets are 4'x8' with the grooves runing the length of the sheet. So we cut them in half and butted 4x4 sheets together to form the "beadboard". We mounted the sheets a couple inches from the floor and capped with a "chair rail". So basically the whole she-bang is close to 50" tall.

    (we didn't put too much thought into the height since we were going to use as much of the sheets as possible, so it was either 4', 2-2/3' (32"), 2',...)
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Dan

    There are three ways to get something done: Do it yourself, employ someone, or forbid your children to do it.
    -Monta Crane

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    12,784
    Dan,

    Looks very nice...I think the height "works!"

    Terry,

    As you can see, there really isn't a magical height number...I think your design will determine what a good height really is.
    Crown Molding: cut, cope, cuss, caulk, chill....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Stuewe
    We did our girl's room last year with the pre-grooved sheets of "beadboard". The sheets are 4'x8' with the grooves runing the length of the sheet. So we cut them in half and butted 4x4 sheets together to form the "beadboard". We mounted the sheets a couple inches from the floor and capped with a "chair rail". So basically the whole she-bang is close to 50" tall.

    (we didn't put too much thought into the height since we were going to use as much of the sheets as possible, so it was either 4', 2-2/3' (32"), 2',...)
    Thanks for the pics Dan!!! I think I'm going to do what you did. I'll just cut the sheets in half and let 'er rip. I really need to cover as much wall as possible.

    t

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Padilla

    Terry,

    As you can see, there really isn't a magical height number...I think your design will determine what a good height really is.
    c,

    Hmmm....design???? I'm supposed to have a design??????

    t

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Terry Hatfield
    Thanks for the pics Dan!!! I think I'm going to do what you did. I'll just cut the sheets in half and let 'er rip. I really need to cover as much wall as possible.

    t
    Terry, I did say the room was for my two daughters. While the designer (SWMBO) may pick the beadboard, I must recomend putting your foot down when it comes to the purple paint and carpet in your bathroom
    Dan

    There are three ways to get something done: Do it yourself, employ someone, or forbid your children to do it.
    -Monta Crane

  14. #14
    When I did LOML bath, I also hung a pedestal sink and a short half wall to separate the "Water Closet". I chose a height that made a nice transition between the sink and medicine cabinet. On the opposite wall, I decided where I wanted the towel bars and made a mid rail (about 2 1/2 to 3") with rabbets on each edge, for the bead board, to go at that height (I fastened the towel bars to this solid piece) and made a cap rail (About 2 1/2 to 3" wide)for the top (topped with a 1 1/2" cap) and a bottom base board with homemade back band for the edges which fit next to the tile and the casings at the doors. Now as I recall the area below the towel rail was about 48" and then I added about 1 foot above that to the cap which ended up just at her eye level. I looked at a lot of picture of turn of the century homes with bead board and they were all taller that your wainscot height, some up to 5-6' and the ceilings were 9-10' then too. I think I chose 4' because I could cut the 8' tongue and grove bead board in half.

    The back bands were milled to 5/8th thick by about 3/4 wide with a 3/8 rabbet for the tongue and groove bead board. And routed an 1/8" radius cove to break the inside edge.

    Don't have a digital camera and don't have CAD to sketch.

    Put some tape on the walls (or use large pieces of cardboard ) to outline the area you're thinking of and see how it looks. If it looks pleasing then it's probably right for the room.

  15. #15
    Why don't you put your beadboard up to about 8 feet and then hang the chair-rail at the top and call it crown moulding!!!
    Last edited by Dennis Peacock; 08-26-2004 at 8:03 PM.
    Thanks & Happy Wood Chips,
    Dennis -
    Get the Benefits of Being an SMC Contributor..!
    ....DEBT is nothing more than yesterday's spending taken from tomorrow's income.

Similar Threads

  1. Lurker peering thru the door with a rail and stile question? (Long)
    By Chris Wilson in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 03-13-2007, 5:20 PM
  2. long time lurker question (sharpening turning tools)
    By John Daugherty in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 07-22-2004, 5:05 PM
  3. A Different Question re: Old vs. New Planes
    By Lewis Lamb in forum Neanderthal Haven
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 01-28-2004, 6:41 AM
  4. TS rear rail does what, exactly?
    By EliotMason in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 01-17-2004, 4:14 PM
  5. Stupid CA glue question
    By Royce Meritt in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 01-16-2004, 5:35 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •