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Thread: Oil or Wax as Machine Protection?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Kansas City, MO
    Posts
    833
    T9 is short for Boeshield T9

  2. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck Saunders View Post
    T9 is short for Boeshield T9
    and you feel that its better than wax?
    S.M.Titmas.

    "...I had field experience, a vocabulary and a criminal mind, I was a danger to myself and others."

    -Anthony Bourdain

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Westlake, TX
    Posts
    170
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Houghton View Post
    About the set screws: it depends on the size of the screw. For anything up to about 1/4", I'd hold the wrench "short," not out at the end of the handle, and tighten firmly. For 1/4" or larger, I'd hold the wrench progressively out on the handle. My dad used to talk about tightening in terms of "grunts." Small set screws are usually one grunt; larger ones two.

    One thing people often don't do is ensure that the set screw is seated properly. On 5/8" and larger motor shafts, there's usually a key* locating the pulley on the shaft, so this is less of an issue, but on smaller shafts or on shafts missing a key, you'll usually be tightening the set screw against a flat or into a slot. As you install the set screw, wiggle the pulley (or whatever you're putting on the shaft) to ensure that the set screw is properly seated. On a shaft with a flat, for instance, you want the set screw to tighten against the centerline of the flat - this is the point at which the flat is farthest from the pulley/closest to the center of the shaft.

    *If you're not familiar with this: the key is a square, rectangular, or sometimes half-round (in one dimension, flat in the other) piece of steel that fits into slots on both the shaft and the pulley to provide positive drive between the two.
    Actually, I need the set screw to tighten the collar thing that goes on the pole thing (don't you just love my technical terms!) of my craftsmen drill press. The last one cracked because I tightened it too tight, and I think just one grunt might still be too much.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    The Hartland of Michigan
    Posts
    7,628
    After I get my iron tables clean, I spread furniture paste wax on, melt it in with a heat gun, then buff.
    Never, under any circumstances, consume a laxative and sleeping pill, on the same night

  5. #20

    Thank you - I will try Wax

    I am going to try Collinite 845 Insulator wax.

    I appreciate your ideas. Specific brand recommendations help me a lot.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Kapolei Hawaii
    Posts
    3,236
    I just tried T9, since it was recommended here. Cleaned the top, and followed teh instructions. Spray on wipe off. After 1 afternoon, I had 2 nice rust hand prints on the clean top..... I guess I can claim that as "identification" Much like a fingerprint on your check! Anyways, I re-cleaned it off and am now trying spray on and let dry... It does get sticky.

    Still evaluating the rather pricey investment. I do live in the rust capital of the world though.... And humid. And I do have sweaty hands. I may go back to wax. It may work well in a non salt air and humid environment.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Kansas City, MO
    Posts
    833
    Quote Originally Posted by sean m. titmas View Post
    and you feel that its better than wax?
    Actually I am in the wax camp

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