Tried and True Original wood finish on cherry

[Kirk Smith]

Hi,
I just finish a coffee table for a friend using cherry. The furniture in his house is a bit darker than cherry. He wants the new coffee table dye a bit darker instead of just cherry before the tried and true original wood finish is put on.
I tried on a sample piece some aniline dye, but it blotched too much.
My question is :
Is it possible to put on a very thin coat of shellac, then the dye, then the tried and true original wood finish?
Or is there another way to prevent the blotching on cherry?
Will the shellac prevent the Tried and true soak into the wood?
Please advise, this is the first time I use tried and true products.
Thanks
Kirk

[Scott Holmes]

Is it possible to put on a very thin coat of shellac, then the dye, then the tried and true original wood finish?

No the dye (alcohol dye) will mix with the shellac and make a mess. Dye sould be used on wood with no finish, no conditioner, nothing but bare wood.

Or is there another way to prevent the blotching on cherry?
dye (alcohol dye) is going to "blotch" the least. Over time the blotchness will blend as the cherry ages. Gel stains work reasonably well, BUT they hide the grain when you go dark.
Will the shellac prevent the Tried and true soak into the wood?
Yes. Tried and true would not be my choice for a tabletop finish.

Please advise, this is the first time I use tried and true products.
Skip the Tried and True. Get your friend to realize that a new cherry table does not have to match the existing furniture. Complimenting the existing while still being different is sometimes a real plus.

Let the cherry age; skip the dye too. I know of no wood that ages more beautifully or more dramatically than Cherry.

[Martin Shupe]

I use the T&T original, then I put the piece in the sun.

Make sure you use a thin coat, or the heat of the sun will make the pores weep oil later.

Let it dry a long time. (I usually give it a couple weeks before I get back to it.) Then I put a finish coat of Waterlox Sealer/Finish.

The sun will darken the piece nicely.

You don't have to use T&T, but it is safer than other BLO, no metallic driers.

[Scott Holmes]

T&T is an oil/varnish blend. A very very slow curing oil/varnish blend. That remains soft.

What advantage is there using an oil/varnish blend under varnish VS. using BLO under varnish? BLO is cheap compaired to T&T.

T&T takes a week or more to cure, BLO cures in a day.

As for safety what issues are you talking about that makes T&T better?

The only metal drier that is deemed unsafe after the finish has cured is LEAD, which has not been used in the USA since 1978. China is another story.

[Howard Acheson]

Scott, T&T makes a couple of different products. The T&T Original, which is what is being suggested for use, is just linseed oil and beeswax. It contains no varnish. There is a T&T Danish Oil that is just pure polymerized linseed oil. The only product that contains varnish, is their Varnish Oil. This is a polymerized linseed oil and a natural resin varnish.

There are no T&T products that I would characterize as an "oil/varnish" in the sence of other oil/varnish products.

That said, I do not prefer any T&T products. They are difficult and slow to apply and build to a soft finish. They do not have much in the way of protective qualities and they yellow quite quickly. They are fine for lightly used surfaces, I guess.

[Martin Shupe]

T&T Danish Oil is the one I use.

I like it. It works for me. One can has lasted me a long, long time.

I use it to color the wood, and then the cherry darkens in the sunlight as it dries. I like the fact that it is all natural. I wipe it on with my bare hands.

I put Waterlox on top of it, for a harder finish. I like that product as well.

I have been told I could skip the T&T and just use the Waterlox, but I have not tried that, yet. Perhaps when I run out of T&T, I will try it.

[Jim Becker]

Specific to the OP's question about putting T&T (and this applies to any of the three formulas) after shellac, the answer is no. These are oil finishes. They must soak into the wood. Shellac can be applied OVER them, although there is no point in that with the oil/wax version.

I happen to like T&T products and use them for projects that I deem appropriate. Interestingly, the cherry desk that I made my wife in 1998 is finished with the T&T oil/wax formula and looks wonderful. It's only been re-waxed three times since then. But I wouldn't use them "alone" on my kitchen table or end tables that get heavy use.

[Scott Holmes]

Liseed oil and beeswax... yeap that a cutting board finish (if you don't mind the smell & taste of the linseed oil).

IMHO adding oil/wax to wood then appling a top coat is asking for adhesion problems.

You're are right Howie, I was looking at the varnish oil.

I don't can for finishes that need to be renewed periodically; even if it's only every couple of years. That's why I don't used T&T either. To soft, not enough protection for a table; too hoigh maintenance.

Just my 2 cents.

[Kirk Smith]

thank you for all of your inputs and advises. I talk to my friend about this and he agreed to use only T&T with no dye or stain. I have suntanned the cherry in the couple of days and it looks darker compare to the original fresh wood. It looks promising.
I am a green woodworker, so there are lots to learn and thank you again for all of your advise.
KIRK