advice on flat top blade for splines

[david kramer]

I just built a spline jig for making boxes, picture frames etc. The blade that I normally use on my table saw is a Forrest WWII. It has an atb grind which doesn't leave a square groove for the spline. I have been thinking about buying a ripping blade anyway, and amazon has a Freud LM72RO10 on sale for $59. I think that this is a flat grind blade (is it?). I'm just wondering whether a ripping blade will actually make a clean cut in what is basically a crosscut.

Any advice?
Thx
David

[John Thompson]

"amazon has a Freud LM72RO10 on sale for $59. I think that this is a flat grind blade (is it?). I'm just wondering whether a ripping blade will actually make a clean cut in what is basically a crosscut"

Any advice?
Thx
David

***************

It is a 24 T flat tooth blade which is a ripping blade. Good blade.. good price....

Clean cut in what is basically a cross-cut?

***************

All day long. The flat grind does not leave the slight angled ridge in the corner as an ATB as you mentioned and.... the stock is clamped into the V shape of your jig which acts as a backer board to avoid blow-out of the back side where the blade exits....

I use a 24 T CMT flat and a 20 T Amana Euro rip with flat for these task and you will be amazed just how much better it will rip thicker stock as long as you are not looking for a glue line edge. So.. you get a double treat by purchasing the Freud rip blade with flat tooth or any flat tooth ripping blade for that matter.

Good luck...

[Bill Huber]

Yes the LM72R is a flat bottom blade and is made for ripping.
http://www.freudtools.com/p-35-heavy...ipbr-nbsp.aspx


You may also want to look at the Box blade, it is flat also, it is around $70 and cuts 1/4 and 3/8 slots.
http://www.freudtools.com/p-316-box-...utter-set.aspx

[Philip Rodriquez]

Why not use a dado blade? Save your cash for something useful

[Ed Sallee]

I use a Forrest WWII, 40 Tooth #1 Grind, .125" kerf. Actually, I have 3 of them. I have one in use, one for back up and the third is usually either freshly sharpened or getting sharpened.

[Phil Thien]

The latest Wood magazine has a tip where you use a spline with a little PSA sandpaper applied to the edge to sand the V down.

You'd be amazed, however, in how little that little V will be noticed if you just leave it.