Results 1 to 12 of 12

Thread: Tinting Oil Based Polyurethane

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Dublin, OH
    Posts
    100

    Tinting Oil Based Polyurethane

    This might be in the realm of stupid ideas, but can I tint fast drying Minwax oil based polyurethane with Minwax oil based red mahogany stain? I stained an older piece I'm refinishing and I've got to blend some of the lighter wood with the darker pieces.

    If not, I have the mixol woodworkers tint set but I have not been successful trying to match the colors - any recipes for red mahagony out there?

    Thanks for the help.
    Todd

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    International Falls, MN
    Posts
    705
    Minwax already has a product like that called polyshades. I used it once and that was enough. To me it looks like the color is sitting on top on the wood and not soaked in like a seperate stain step does. I know several people that have the same experience.

    Of course that is just my opinion.

    Quinn

  3. #3
    Something doesn't feel right about it.

    If you really want to tint your topcoat, look for an oil soluble dye or pigment that doesn't contain any of its own binder...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Dublin, OH
    Posts
    100
    Shawn I'm partly in your court and partly in Quinn's, that's the reason I thought I'd ask - sounds like I'd better experiment on a scrap board.

    Like I said, I've the mixol tints, I just can't seem to match, or darken, my red mahagony. Anyone got any recipes out there?

    Thanks
    Todd

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    37,510
    Todd, the problem with tinting varnish is that it's extremely difficult to get it on even and without noticeable "lines". While you could spray it...spraying varnish is probably the most thankless thing to do since the overspray is sticky-icky due to the slow dry time of varnish. This is exactly why a gentleman in Texas that many of us know from another forum in years past said that Minwax Polyshades is "the worst thing that ever happened to a can"...

    If you want to tone a piece...put on a barrier coat of dewaxed shellac and then spray a toner. Then apply one or more clear coats of your varnish to finish things off, remembering that the varnish will change the color, too. (testing and documenting the exact regimen on scrap from your project is important to reproduce the one you like the best)
    “Never raise your hands to your children, it leaves your groin unprotected.” - Red Buttons

    If you want your spouse to listen and pay strict attention to every word you say -- talk in your sleep...

    Be safety conscious. 80% of people are caused by accidents.

    Equestrian Sports. The most fun you can have with your boots still on...


  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Dublin, OH
    Posts
    100
    Thanks Jim, that's actually what I was thinking, and I do already have a coat of dewaxed shellac on it - what's a good recipe for a toner - or is this something I should buy?

    Thanks

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    37,510
    If you're spraying, you can tint your shellac with alcohol soluble dyes and spray them on...typically using a small touch-up gun or for really small things, an air-brush. Toners are also available in aerosol cans, pre-mixed to typical "colors". The idea of a toner is to be subtle, either for accent or to provide contrast when appropriate. Some folks will take things further and seal the piece after toning and then use a glaze to highlight shadow lines and contours. Finishing can be a very artistic experience!
    “Never raise your hands to your children, it leaves your groin unprotected.” - Red Buttons

    If you want your spouse to listen and pay strict attention to every word you say -- talk in your sleep...

    Be safety conscious. 80% of people are caused by accidents.

    Equestrian Sports. The most fun you can have with your boots still on...


  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    International Falls, MN
    Posts
    705
    Todd,

    Like Jim said make sure you document each trial. I know you can go through a ton of them. Jim mentioned using dewaxed shellac. You only need dewaxed shellac under water based finish. If you live in the middle of nowhere like I do most of the shallac is made by Zinser and is waxed. I was able to get some dewaxed from homestead finishing.

    Hope that helps.

    Quinn

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Winterville, NC (eastern NC)
    Posts
    1,427
    I accidently tinted some poly with some stain very early on in my woodworking endeavors. I was brushing some poly onto a project directly from the can, to a previously stained project. As you can guess, the poly-filled brush lifted some stain directly from the project. Then got transfered to the can of poly, instantly tinting the poly. I have since learned to spray a sealer coat of thinned poly or shellac to the project first.
    Live and learn.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    37,510
    Quote Originally Posted by Quinn McCarthy View Post
    You only need dewaxed shellac under water based finish.
    You also should use de-waxed shellac under anything containing polyurethane. Normal alkyd or phenolic oil based varnishes will stick just fine over "regular" shellac. But I only keep de-waxed around anyway...'keeps it simple!
    “Never raise your hands to your children, it leaves your groin unprotected.” - Red Buttons

    If you want your spouse to listen and pay strict attention to every word you say -- talk in your sleep...

    Be safety conscious. 80% of people are caused by accidents.

    Equestrian Sports. The most fun you can have with your boots still on...


  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Dublin, OH
    Posts
    100
    Thanks for the help guys!

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Chico, California
    Posts
    998
    For some reason, formula I think, that red mahogany is different than the other Minwax colors. Check the can for top coats and other info. DAMHIK!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •