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Thread: Tinting Oil Based Polyurethane

  1. #1
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    Tinting Oil Based Polyurethane

    This might be in the realm of stupid ideas, but can I tint fast drying Minwax oil based polyurethane with Minwax oil based red mahogany stain? I stained an older piece I'm refinishing and I've got to blend some of the lighter wood with the darker pieces.

    If not, I have the mixol woodworkers tint set but I have not been successful trying to match the colors - any recipes for red mahagony out there?

    Thanks for the help.
    Todd

  2. #2
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    Minwax already has a product like that called polyshades. I used it once and that was enough. To me it looks like the color is sitting on top on the wood and not soaked in like a seperate stain step does. I know several people that have the same experience.

    Of course that is just my opinion.

    Quinn

  3. #3
    Something doesn't feel right about it.

    If you really want to tint your topcoat, look for an oil soluble dye or pigment that doesn't contain any of its own binder...

  4. #4
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    Shawn I'm partly in your court and partly in Quinn's, that's the reason I thought I'd ask - sounds like I'd better experiment on a scrap board.

    Like I said, I've the mixol tints, I just can't seem to match, or darken, my red mahagony. Anyone got any recipes out there?

    Thanks
    Todd

  5. #5
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    Todd, the problem with tinting varnish is that it's extremely difficult to get it on even and without noticeable "lines". While you could spray it...spraying varnish is probably the most thankless thing to do since the overspray is sticky-icky due to the slow dry time of varnish. This is exactly why a gentleman in Texas that many of us know from another forum in years past said that Minwax Polyshades is "the worst thing that ever happened to a can"...

    If you want to tone a piece...put on a barrier coat of dewaxed shellac and then spray a toner. Then apply one or more clear coats of your varnish to finish things off, remembering that the varnish will change the color, too. (testing and documenting the exact regimen on scrap from your project is important to reproduce the one you like the best)
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #6
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    Thanks Jim, that's actually what I was thinking, and I do already have a coat of dewaxed shellac on it - what's a good recipe for a toner - or is this something I should buy?

    Thanks

  7. #7
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    If you're spraying, you can tint your shellac with alcohol soluble dyes and spray them on...typically using a small touch-up gun or for really small things, an air-brush. Toners are also available in aerosol cans, pre-mixed to typical "colors". The idea of a toner is to be subtle, either for accent or to provide contrast when appropriate. Some folks will take things further and seal the piece after toning and then use a glaze to highlight shadow lines and contours. Finishing can be a very artistic experience!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #8
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    Todd,

    Like Jim said make sure you document each trial. I know you can go through a ton of them. Jim mentioned using dewaxed shellac. You only need dewaxed shellac under water based finish. If you live in the middle of nowhere like I do most of the shallac is made by Zinser and is waxed. I was able to get some dewaxed from homestead finishing.

    Hope that helps.

    Quinn

  9. #9
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    I accidently tinted some poly with some stain very early on in my woodworking endeavors. I was brushing some poly onto a project directly from the can, to a previously stained project. As you can guess, the poly-filled brush lifted some stain directly from the project. Then got transfered to the can of poly, instantly tinting the poly. I have since learned to spray a sealer coat of thinned poly or shellac to the project first.
    Live and learn.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quinn McCarthy View Post
    You only need dewaxed shellac under water based finish.
    You also should use de-waxed shellac under anything containing polyurethane. Normal alkyd or phenolic oil based varnishes will stick just fine over "regular" shellac. But I only keep de-waxed around anyway...'keeps it simple!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  11. #11
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    Thanks for the help guys!

  12. #12
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    For some reason, formula I think, that red mahogany is different than the other Minwax colors. Check the can for top coats and other info. DAMHIK!

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