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Thread: Refinishing Red Oak Coffee Table Top

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    Palatine IL
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    Refinishing Red Oak Coffee Table Top

    I realized I messed some things up with my waterbased polycrylic finish and decided to strip it.

    The stripping went pretty well and I have since sanded off the stain from the top of the table. The problem I am noticing is that in the pores of the grain, there still seems to maybe be some finish in there. If I rub my finger across the grain, it come out stringy, almost like rolling dough.

    I am planning on using filler for the grain, but worry about the current finish that is in the grain. How should I go about fixing this? I am worried about your suggestions as there is a lot of grain I have to contend with!

    I plan on ultimately filling the grain, restaining, and then finishing the top with waterbase polycrylic again, sans mistakes!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
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    Tomball, TX (30 miles NNW Houston)
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    Hi Adam,

    Stripper should remove the finish from the pores... if not, reapply the stripper.

    Sanding is a poor way to remove the finish...it gets "sanded" down into the pores and will adversley affect the staining and finishing process...

    I find it better, especially on red oak, to color the wood with stain or dye; then, mix you grain filler, adding the color you want, then filling with the pre-colored filler.

    Trying to color dried filler to look like wood, instead of stained or dyed filler is WAY TOO MUCH trouble.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  3. #3
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    Mar 2008
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    Scott,

    Thanks for the reply. I will definitely take your advice with the filler when I get to that point.

    Right now I find myself stuck with the filler in the pores. By putting down the stripper, I am sure it is getting into the grain and softening it up, but using just a scraper will not pull it out of the pores. Would you recommend a brush? Any tips for getting it out of the recesses?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    Southport, NC
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    What stripper did you use? A stripper containining methylene chloride should get all of the prior finish off if you follow the directions on the can. Red oak is a deeply pored wood and your waterborne finish has become deeply embedded. It may take some brushing with a stiff bristled plastic brush after letting the stripper set for 15 minutes. Use small scrapers or chisels to remove finish from corners etc.
    Howie.........

  5. #5
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    Mar 2008
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    I am not at home right now to check, but I can say it was an orange gel type that smelled like citrus

    It worked very well for the stuff on top, but not in the pores. I'll try grabbing a brush and scrubbing the grain.

  6. #6
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    Jul 2008
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    Since it's oak you will want to stay away from a wire brush... Brass would be OK.

    Howie, will the plastic brush hold up with the stripper? I've had plastic knives melt.

    Get a real stripper; one with methylene chloride as Howie has suggested. The new "green" strippers don't have the firepower needed for some finishes and fillers.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
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    Well I thought I'd give you guys a quick update as to my progress. I used the gel again as I wasn't able to make it out to the store to purchase anything different.

    I scrubbed with a plastic brush after letting it sit for 30 minutes. I was most aggressive in the center of the table rather than the edges where I was experiencing the stripper spraying off the edges.

    Because the table was still somewhat wet last night from the efforts with the stripper, I just hoped that I solved my issue. This morning I was able to see that the efforts in the center were well worth it, but the edges still had junk in the pores.

    I am going to try again this evening just on the parts where I feel that I have missed it.

    Overall if I had to do it again, the plastic brush was well worth it and cleaned up pretty well too. No melting experienced.

  8. #8
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    The plastic bristled brush I use is made for, and sold as, a "stripping brush". I've used it for years and I only use a methylene chloride stripper. It should hold up.

    I agree that the so called "safe" or "green" strippers are less effective than the ones containing MC. They take a lot longer and do no do a good job getting finish out of the deep pores. They are also quite bit less effective with poly varnish finishes.
    Howie.........

  9. #9
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    Well that interesting... I used a CHEAP plastic "putty knife" and it melted.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

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