Contributor
Dye the frame leave the panel alone. 1-2 light coats of garnet shellac on entire project... top coat if you want.
I just finished a project with 2300+- sq. ft. of walnut in a high-end custom home (not mine). Dye, then shellac, then varnish. Interior decorator spec'd "Minwax Dark Walnut" I said no, I'll get the color you want without hiding the grain. Used TT Dye. Decorator and homeowner were ecstatic.
Last edited by Scott Holmes; 07-17-2009 at 8:25 PM.
Scott
Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.
Member
Question to the experienced. Can the front panels be bleached to lighten them up before finish?
Contributor
Yes. Is it a good idea ? NOT IMHO. If you want it bleached I'd use butternut for the panels.
Walnut is one of the few hardwoods that actually lightens with exposure to light, most darken with age walnut goes from dark brown to a light redish brown.
Scott
Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.
Member
Yes Scott, that has already been discussed. My question was with respect to Jim's requirement to get the panels lighter than the rails and stiles. Since he already has the panels made, I was questioning if he bleached the panels, would they remain lighter than the frames even after aging? Since that is what Jim is looking to accomplish.
Contributor
To answer your question... yes, it would make and keep the walnut panels much lighter than the frame.
I talked with Jim today. Bleach is not what he wants. He was afraid the dye would make the panels very dark. He wants the panels lighter than the frame; Jim's wife wants them the same color. So I think he's going to dye the frames and leave the panels. Later the panels may end up a bit lighter than the frames. Everyone will be happy. MAYBE.
Scott
Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.
Contributor
the word dye and walnut don't go together. you might as well use transtint and poplar if you want the pb ebony look.
jim alot of my clients are 20somes and want that same look. can't go wrong with the classic 3 part urethane varnish, blo, and tung oil. or go the easy route and buy the maloof poly/oil from rockler. you achieve that dark look but retain the grain, and the hand rubbed look is amazing.
before
http://www.nathanchandler.com/images/IMG_0201.JPG
after
http://www.nathanchandler.com/images/IMG_0211.JPG
http://www.nathanchandler.com/images/IMG_0212.JPG
Last edited by nathan chandler; 07-20-2009 at 5:15 PM.
Member
One possible twist to the "dye, shellac, varnish" schedule that Scott and others mention is to add a glazing step. Jeff Jewitt wrote about this in Fine Woodworking Mar/Apr '05 piece "Finishing Walnut." I'm in the process of using this approach on a walnut vanity and really like the way it looks on some test pieces. It's not that time consuming once you work out the mixing. I used his Transtint golden brown dye in water, then a coat of shellac (Zinsser's SealCoat), then a glaze of equal parts BLO and Bartley's gel varnish with some artist's oil colors mixed in, then Waterlox. Now if only I hadn't goofed on my dilution of dye in step 1 (I made it 10 times too concentrated)...
--Rob
Originally Posted by J. Scott Holmes
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