iron - bronze - white bronze

[Derek Cohen]

I am about to order a few planes for a class I am taking in a few weeks -- wondering what the current thinking is regarding metal construction.

Want to get one of the new LV block planes as well as a LN 102. Seriously looking at a LN 5.5. The LV BU are all iron - that smoother looks nice!

Hi Tom

The LN #102 is a great little block plane, but I do not see it at its best in the workshop. It is really aimed at the construction industry, where it can be carried in an apron pocket. The LV Apron plane falls into the same category. In fact the better version for this is the #103, with a higher pitch. I have one and it is just wonderful as a small, handy all rounder.

For work in a shop, the better choice is a LA adjustable mouth block plane, such as the #60 1/2 or the Veritas LA BP. Best of the lot is the new Veritas version (they come in two price ranges).

The LN #5 1/2 is a good choice, although I would say that the Veritas LA Jack would be better since it can be configured as a smoother, jointer, shooting board plane, and jack. Add to this a dedicated smoother (Veritas BU Smoother or LN #4) and you will be covered for most needs ... and with very high quality tools!

Look after the metal by oiling or waxing, and then it is not an issue.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Tom Godley]

David -- Thanks for even more information.

Sam -- your thoughts are very valid. I am rushing my decision on the planes.

I am taking a week long class next month -- making a proper workbench.

I know I will use the two new block planes. I have a new LN rabbit plane that I bought for some Tenon work two years ago. I also have a old - never used - Record shoulder plane of my dads.

But my thinking was to get another good plane that I know will be used -- that way even if my old planes are serviceable I will have a good plane to round out my collection. So having the LV BU and a serviceable 4.5 would be too much the same.

With the introduction of the BU planes from LV -- and all the positive reviews. I thought that maybe that would be a good introduction to a larger quality plane.

[Sam Takeuchi]

About LV bevel up/low angle planes, they are good. I have BU smoother and LA jack (confusing name scheme for the same family), and they are great. Though, like Derek says, do take care of the bare metal parts. They start forming rust easily if you don't keep them clean and oiled. My LA jack has persistent rust problem on the side where my hand rest while shooting. I'm not too good at keeping it clean and oiled and I have rust to show for, so I advise others to do what I don't do

[Joel Goodman]

To add to the confusion the LN 62 Low angle jack is a little smaller then the LV (5 vs 5.5 size) and is a great plane.
For me the 4 is less useful than a 5 sized plane.
One general note -- the BU planes are easier for the beginner to set up but you will want to get your #8 working and a BD will give you an idea of what to aim for.
I don't think you'll regret a LN BU or BD or a LV BU. They're all really good.

If you're getting the plane for a class why not ask the instructor their opinion.

[Tom Godley]

Thanks for all the help provided!

...... decided to go with one of the new LV NX60 block planes and a LN102 WB - both a little overkill but I know I will use them going forward for various projects.

I also spent some time looking over the old planes that I have and the Bailey 4.5 and the 8 are in quite nice shape -- So I think I will get new blades for both of them and learn how to "tune them up"

I did speak to the instructor - a SMC member - That is what started my quest.

They have tools to use so it may be wise to just wait and order others as I gain some knowledge -- but I do not think getting the LV LA Jack or the BU Smother would be a mistake.

[Eddie Darby]

If you have a plane that does not have an adjustable mouth, and you are working some wild grain that requires you to tighten up the mouth, then try some brass shims placed behind the blade.

This works like a charm, and I use it even on bench planes that are more trouble to adjust the Frog forward, than to drop a shim in. This way I can quickly jump around between various modes without the use of any tools.