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Thread: Better method for flushing up plywood edges

  1. #1
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    Better method for flushing up plywood edges

    Hi All, I'm gluing some 3/4" poplar wood to the edges of plywood panels I'm using in a project. The poplar strips are about 1/8" oversize for the plywood and when I use a straigt bit with bearing to flush it I get a lot of splintering in the poplar. Is there a better way of doing this? I've seen this method many times but it doesn't seem to work for me. Maybe my bit is dull. What method do you use? Thanks Alan in Md.
    Last edited by Alan Tolchinsky; 09-02-2004 at 12:11 AM.
    Alan T. Thank God for every pain free day you live.

  2. #2
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    Alan,
    If you cut it the exact size...then just sand it a bit by hand.
    "All great work starts with love .... then it is no longer work"

  3. #3
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    Loveland, Ohio
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    Alan, if the overhang is small you might try climb cutting it with the same router bit, which I find eliminates any splintering.

    Just make sure you are careful with the router as you approach the end of the workpiece.

  4. #4
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    Birmingham, AL
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    Alan, you will need to climb cut the overhang in order to keep it from splintering. I made a jig that uses a trim router on a sled so that I can lay the plywood flat on a bench. It is very difficult to trim in the vertical position because you don't have much support for the router. The jig can handle up to about 3/4" of edging. It also has a pivot point so you can vary the distance from the piece. The router base sets the depth.
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    "Create a Vision...then make it a reality" (Some Assembly Required)

    Mike Palmer

  5. #5
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    Tacoma, Wa
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    Hi Alan....would a spiral bit work better? It would shear the wood instead of chopping at it.
    greg

  6. #6
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    Medford Minnesota
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    Alan

    I would use a cabinet scraper.



    Tom

  7. #7
    Mike Palmer;

    That is a very nice jig! Would you care if I make a copy of it? Well it won't be a copy persay, because I have no plans There have been hundreds of times one of those would come in handy.

    Thanks in advance, because being the nice guy you are, I just know will will say I can.

  8. #8
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    Grand Marais, MN. A transplant from Minneapolis
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    Very Nice Jig..... I'm steeling the idea
    I use masking tape on the plywood as you edge guide when attaching your banding, then sand down to it the plywood. Works good
    TJH
    Live Like You Mean It.



    http://www.northhouse.org/

  9. #9
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    Mar 2004
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    Birmingham, AL
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    Anyone who want to build a copy is more than welcome to do so. It is a simple but effective jig. The main thing to keep in mind is to make the base substantial because it does 2 tings. 1 - the thickness provides a large surface for the vertical piece to connect. This will keeps the side piece from flexing with the trim router in the horizontal position. 2 - Extra weight and surface area add to the stability.

    I hope this helps.
    "Create a Vision...then make it a reality" (Some Assembly Required)

    Mike Palmer

  10. #10
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    Alan,

    If you have a router table, put in a nice shear cut flush-trim bit (CMT makes one, that is what I use) and then raise the fence a bit off the table to clear the edge-banding and go for it. I do this all the time and I have no splintering problems and you have great support from the table and fence to get a nice clean cut.

    I haven't done this with poplar but I have done it with oak and birch...works fabby!
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  11. #11
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    Thanks All For The Great Ideas

    Hi All, I'm going to make one of Mike's jigs also; it seems like a good way to go. Tyler, thanks for the tape idea. Chris, I have to get one of those shear cut flush trim bits and give it a try. I do have some spirat bits that I'm going to practice with and see how it goes. And I'm going to use Mark Singer's method of getting just the right width and then not have to trim at all. So many options! Thanks again guys. Alan in Md.
    Alan T. Thank God for every pain free day you live.

  12. #12
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    If I'm just doing a few edges, I generally do it with a handplane. (Y'all might recognize me as a guy who wants to get things done quickly. This is an operation where hand tools do work quickly.) I put the panel down flat on the bench. I have a flood lamp which I sit out in the shop a ways, at a height somewhat above the bench height. Lit with that lamp, the lumber edge casts a long shadow across the panel. As I plane down, that shadow gets shorter and shorter. It gives a very obvious indicator of how much more I need to plane. It is really pretty easy to get the lumber edge within .02" or .01" of the panel surface -- close enough for the sander to easily clean it up -- yet not dig into the panel itself.

    (added in edit)
    Here's a picture of the setup. Notice the long shadow cast across the panel by the lumber edge. Because of the low angle of the floodlight, the shadow is many many times longer than the lumber edge is tall. I watch the length of the shadow as I plane, and stop when it gets pretty short.
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    Last edited by Jamie Buxton; 09-02-2004 at 2:12 PM.

  13. #13
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    Jamie, Thanks for the pic. It's nice to do things "the quiet way" sometimes isn't it? Good time to hone my planing skills. Thanks Alan in Md.
    Alan T. Thank God for every pain free day you live.

  14. #14
    Mike. Great looking jig and well thought out. I had no time for making something to flush up shelving edges, and was thinging about buying a lipping planer. But at $500.00 for one of those, I looked around and bought a pre-made base from Pat Warner. Pat makes all kind of router accessories and is reasonable on costs.
    I have been going to do a review on this here, but due to lack of time I haven't gotten it done. So here is a quick pic of what it is.
    I use a 1 1/4" mortise bit.
    Steve
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  15. #15
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    I use something like Steve's offset base to trim lumber edges in a somewhat different situation. I fairly often put edging on all four edges of a panel -- for instance for doors or desk tops. Typically I miter the ends of the edging and glue them all on before I trim them flush to the surface. My hand-plane technique doesn't work. Mike's style of jig hangs up near the corner, and flush-trim router bits don't work cleanly either. I'm not sure the fancy lipping planers which Steve mentions will work well there. Steve's offset base approach can be made to work even into the corner. The part sliding on the panel needs to be pointy so it will fit in there. I can't tell from Steve's pic, but I think it is straight, and so wouldn't quite do what I'm describing.

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