Router table fence design?

[Jay Yoder]

I am currently reading a router table book by Bill Hylton. In it he talks about (and illustrates) a router table with just a plate and no permanent tracks for his fences and accessories. I am currently starting to investigate designing my router table and was planning on the NYWS version, but now am wondering how the "non" tracked fences work out. Has anyone tried this? Also, it would be great to see pictures of everyones tops and fences. Thanks everyone!

[Jim Watts]

Here are pics of my setup, FWIW:

[Peter Pedisich]

Jay,

Here is a fence I made in 2001, it moves in tracks but they are external to the top.

[glenn bradley]

I use Rockler's version; slots in the top so the fence just drops in. the t-slots in the fences make temporary or permanent fixtures, stop blocks, tall or sacrificial fences and such quick and easy.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachme...7&d=1240946204

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachme...3&d=1248397977

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachme...7&d=1229718865

This same basic approach could be used on a shop made fence as well. My fence and table overhang so clamping vs. slots if required is no problem.

[Cliff Furman]

When I first put the router in the TS extension table, I clamped a fenct to the tables saw fence. This worked, but old fast, when I found I needed to do a rip, and didn't want to unset the router fence.
I added 2 t tracks and bought a Rockler fence that was on sale. It's an alum angle with 2 fence faces on it. I think it was only $29.
Much more convienent than the fence clamped to the TS fence.

[Andy Haney]

My "tracks" are in the base of the fence, and I have two threaded inserts set into the tabletop. I hold the fence in place with "knobs". I can email pics if you wish, as I haven't tried to master posting pics here.

Andy

[Jay Yoder]

Awesome info so far! Sure are a lot of options and choices out there! Keep em coming!

I still have not finalized the choice between table saw wing and stand alone. both have advantages and both can have a "cabinet" built into the design. Anyone care to share their thoughts? Shop space is always at a premium...

My two questions/concerns with the table saw wing choice are:

1) dust collection (how to address both above table and under the table)

2) does having it to the right of the blade interfere with normal saw operation? I would hate to have the router setup, only to have to "undo" the setup to use the table saw.

[Fred Belknap]

I use a similar set up as #2 but I also set up to work without using the TS fence. I drilled a series of holes in one end of the router table top and use a bolt with a knob on it and on the other end I just use a clamp. Simple and works pretty good.

[glenn bradley]

As you said, "wing" style with cabinet. The RT top has threaded inserts and I bolt it to the saw wing through the wing holes.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachme...8&d=1243149958

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachme...7&d=1240946204

[pat warner]

Fence has its own tracks. The whole thing, however, is pinned (lever clamped) to tee-nuts under the router table top.

[Myk Rian]

I am currently starting to investigate designing my router table and was planning on the NYWS version, but now am wondering how the "non" tracked fences work out. Has anyone tried this? Also, it would be great to see pictures of everyones tops and fences. Thanks everyone!

I've made with, and without tracks. I prefer having a miter and T-tracks. The miter is good for jigs that you clamp the part on/in. I use T-tracks for feather boards and clamps.
It comes down to personal preference. Make the table without, then add later if you want to.

[Peter Quinn]

I'm using a Jessum Rout-r-lift in the outboard of a PM66. Its the factory setup on some of the WMH machines. The aluminum plate is tapped and the fence is held to it with long plastic star knobs that have threaded posts in the ends. No miter slot, I just use simple coping sleds that reference the fence. Adjustments are simple though you are some what limited in terms of travel, maybe 2 1/2"? But that is actually enough for most things I've done on the router table.

I also have a basic plywood torsion box type fence similar to your design but stripped down that can clamp to the TS fence. Its tall and works well for cuts with the stock passed vertical. I often use the TS fence by itself for slots and dados in sheet goods which eliminates the need for a router fence with with more range.