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Thread: Ammonia fuming advice sought

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by James White View Post
    So Orange and Garnet are the interchangeable terms?

    James
    I thought Orange and Amber were the synonymous terms... Be good to find out if I am wrong!

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    Household CHLOROX has a pH of about 12 .. contains sodium hydroxide and sodium hypochlorite .. actually, a pretty strong base .. not an acid
    Correct...
    My post was unclear in that regard.
    I'd intended that ammonia (a base) is a weaker base than Clorox.(another base).
    A weak base, such as ammonia (pH of ~11) isn't as effective as a weak acid - such as vinegar(pH of ~3) w/ neutral being a pH of 7 as a "sterilizing" agent.

  3. #18
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    Mar 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by James White View Post
    Thank you both. I will be going with the water based Transfast in the Dark Mission Brown. The white and black oak fumed up a bit too different to use fuming. I did some test boards with the dye and I like the look.

    I plan to spray the dresser with water today. Then tomorrow I will sand with 220 or 320. I am not sure what is appropriate. Then spray with water again just before applying the dye. Question is should I sand after that dries. I still don't know what color shellac to go with. Amber or Garnet? What would you use?

    So Orange and Garnet are the interchangeable terms?

    James
    Sand with 320 grit. Mount your sandpaper on a felt cushioned sanding block and sand in the direction of the grain. Sand very lightly--ultimate smoothness is not important at this stage. Smoothness comes by smooth sanding after applying the first coat of clear finish. No sanding is advised before that.

    Why are you going to spray with water again? Last time I used a waterbased stain, I sprayed onto dry wood. Wetting the wood can lead to uneven penetration of the dye.

    Yes, in shellac, garnet = orange.

    What is your top coat going to be? If you are going to use a poly varnish or a waterborne finish, your shellac must be dewaxed.
    Howie.........

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Shoreline, CT
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    As has been mentioned, no reason at all to spray oak with water just before dying. You may have seen some advise about doing that, BUT the context was different. That is a technique that might be used on very blotch prone woods to reduce blotching, with the water acting as a mild pre-dye conditioner. But oak doesn't blotch, so the water has nothing to do that would be positive. And, while raising the grain by wetting and then sanding after it has dried is a tradtional technique, it really is over rated. Sand just a tiny bit too much and you will have grain raise anyway. It is a lot easier to ignore that, just apply the dye, let it dry, and then apply the first coat of the top coat, right over the roughened raised grain. Then when that has dried you can sand off the raised grain. It will sand more easily since it has been stiffened by the first finish coat.

  5. #20
    Thank you both for the advise. Yes I read an article on applying dye and it recommended spraying with water to even out the dye absorption. I like the idea of sanding after the sealer coat. Makes sense to me.

    I am not sure about top coat. I was considering just the shellac and wax. I don't want a plastic look. Perhaps lacquer would be good. I don't have very much finishing experience. Mostly brushed or wiped on poly over oil. I have only used shellac once and sprayed lacquer once. I am terified of wrecking this.

    Any recommendation on what color shellac to go with? I now have BTC in blond, amber and garnet. I would like to have a classic Arts and Crafts look. Every thing I have read just says shellac but never specify what color.

    James

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