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Thread: Before and after a blade stabilizer

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Milwaukee, WI
    Posts
    6,449

    Before and after a blade stabilizer

    I have a Ryobi BT3000 saw (go ahead and laugh) and primarily use thin kerf blades. I've been able to fine-tune the setup to the point where I have +/- .001" of runout right under the gullets on most all of my blades.

    Still, I have noticed that some of the blades vibrate a little bit. The WWII blade to a lesser degree, the somewhat thinner Dewalt blades seem a little more prone.

    I can see signs in my cut edges. Now, I know I'm nitpicking, but every once in a while when ripping plywood (so no wood tension issues) I'll hear a little "zing." And when I inspect the cut edge, you can see some swirling blade marks in that spot. It is almost the same as if I had stopped pushing the stock so I could adjust my hand placement. However, I never stopped even pressure on the stock.

    I finally decided to purchase a blade stabilizer from Forrest. I purchased the 5" version, which still provides 2.5" of cutting height (plenty for 99% of what I do).

    I mentioned on another forum that I could hear the difference. Someone asked if I could see the difference (a fair question).

    So I created a little test: I used my sled to cut a piece of BB plywood that is approx. 7 or 8" wide. I then used a black marker to color the cut edge.

    Next, I placed the wood back on the sled, and ran it into the blade five times. On the fifth pull back to the front of the saw, I paused for five seconds.

    The top is the piece w/ no stabilizer in place, the bottom piece had the stabilizer in place.

    Besides seeing that the piece cut w/ the stabilizer in place is "more black," I can also tell you that it is straighter, with fewer light gaps than the piece cut w/o the stabilizer.

    I know the topic (whether a stabilizer is worth it or not) comes up here from time to time. I just thought this pic was a good demonstration of what one may expect should someone be on the fence.
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    Last edited by Phil Thien; 08-05-2009 at 10:29 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Pensacola Florida
    Posts
    2,157
    thanks for the info Phil. I use a 12" dewalt blade on my uni when I need to cut something 3: thick and that thing viberates fairly bad...I had thought about stabilizers but never got one but now I think one will be on the short list...............again thanks
    Dave

    IN GOD WE TRUST
    USN Retired

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Virginia Beach Va
    Posts
    381
    Phil, I had the my BT3000 for over 15 years and it worked great for me. I only switched out when the new Sawstop PCS came out. BTW, the dust collection on the BT3000 is second to none.

  4. #4
    Good info on the blade stabilizer.

    Also count me as a satisfied BT3000 owner for a lot of years and I built a lot of things with it. I moved and built a new pole barn a couple of years ago. Then last year I moved a Sawstop ICS, 15" joiner and 8" planer into my new shop and built my kitchen cabinets. My goal was to pay for those tools and a bandsaw and drill press with what I saved building the kitchen cabinets. I ran out of money building the house and still need the bandsaw and drill press. My friend that I sold the BT3000 to is still using it. It did have some neat features.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    N.W. Missouri
    Posts
    1,564
    I have a pair I use with an 8" carbide tipped blade to cut aluminum on my Craftsman table saw.

    John

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