Finishing curly walnut kitchen table

[Matt Roth]

My kitchen table is complete, but I'm having second thoughts regarding my choice of finish. I applied multiple coats of tung oil, wet sanding the last couple coats. After the oil cured, I applied a couple coats of paste wax. The table looks great, until someone touches it! Here's the problem:

My plan was for a finish that would be easy to touch up, as this table will see daily use/abuse. That was my rationale for choosing the oil/wax. Now that it is complete and put into service, I've noticed that simply sliding a fork or bumping the surface with a ring will leave marks in the finish. I'm open to removing the existing finish and starting over, what should I do the second time around?

[Brian Kent]

Matt,

First of all I would love to see pictures of your table.

Second, what Tung oil product did you lose. I have been taught here and through books on finishing that a very wide variety of products are called Tung Oil. Some have Tung oil, some do not, but they give a wide variety of protection.

Third, I have also been told not to use wax on table surfaces because it is so soft and shows heat rings and water spots (if not immediately wiped up) easily.

Finally, my wild guess is that you will do best cleaning the wax off with mineral spirits, and then (depending on what the existing "tung oil" type is) finishing with a hard non-poly varnish like Waterlox or Behlens Rockhard.

[Matt Roth]

Matt,

First of all I would love to see pictures of your table.

Second, what Tung oil product did you lose. I have been taught here and through books on finishing that a very wide variety of products are called Tung Oil. Some have Tung oil, some do not, but they give a wide variety of protection.

Third, I have also been told not to use wax on table surfaces because it is so soft and shows heat rings and water spots (if not immediately wiped up) easily.

Finally, my wild guess is that you will do best cleaning the wax off with mineral spirits, and then (depending on what the existing "tung oil" type is) finishing with a hard non-poly varnish like Waterlox or Behlens Rockhard.

I added some pics in the woodworking projects forum, http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=118189

Deftoil Danish Oil Finish is the stuff I used under the wax. Can I use the Waterlox or Behlens Rockhard over that?

[Brian Kent]

Yes. But first do a layer of de-waxed Shellac to make sure. Others can let you know whether that combination works without a shellac barrier. My guess is that it would work - both oil based - if the oil finished is reasonably dry.

That curly walnut is stunning. Did you buy it as curly walnut or just search through the stacks of regular walnut?

[Matt Roth]

After seeing the pics of your walnut burl table, I'll do whatever you say with respect to finish! Gorgeous work all around!

I bought that walnut as curly; I wish I'd found it hidden in a regular stack. Unfortunately the hardwood dealer was very aware of what he had! That said, it was too pretty to pass up!

[John Michaels]

I've experienced the same thing you're going through with using tung oil/wax. I was never sure which one was the culprit, the oil or the wax. For me time was what solved the problem. Give it two weeks and see what happens then.

[Scott Holmes]

I would suggest you remove the wax with MS and a clean rag. It will take a couple of cleanings.

A seal coat of shellac is a good idea since the existing finish is an oil/varnish blend.

Behlens or Waterlox will both do a beautiful choice is yours. 1/2 pint varnish mixed with 1/ pint MS to make a wipe-on is fool-proof.

[Matt Roth]

I would suggest you remove the wax with MS and a clean rag. It will take a couple of cleanings.

A seal coat of shellac is a good idea since the existing finish is an oil/varnish blend.

Behlens or Waterlox will both do a beautiful choice is yours. 1/2 pint varnish mixed with 1/ pint MS to make a wipe-on is fool-proof.

OK, I know less about finishing than most here have forgot. Here's what I'm thinking with questions about each step:

1) Throughly remove all wax with MS.

2) Add coat of schellac. (Any specific brand/type) (Brush or rag?) (Wet sand?)

3) 1/2pt varnish mixed with 1 pint MS. I'm assuming the varnish is the Behlens or Waterlox? Do I apply this mix the same as the Danish oil? (Wipe on, let set for a bit, wipe off?)

Thanks!

[Howard Acheson]

>> Deftoil Danish Oil Finish is the stuff I used under the wax. Can I use the Waterlox or Behlens Rockhard over that?

Deftoil is an linseed oil and varnish mixture. It contains no real tung oil at all.

Yes, you can apply any finish directly over it. Waterlox Original and Behlens Rockhard are excellent choices for an everyday kitchen table. They are as tough as poly but much nicer in appearance. Their darker color will nicely complement the walnut. Let the Deftoil fully dry for a week. Lightly scuff sand with 320 paper sanding in the direction of the grain. Dust and apply 2 to 3 coats of either the Waterlox Original Gloss or Satin or the Behlen Rockhard. Let either fully dry and cure for 3-4 weeks before subjecting the surface to any abrasion or any hot and cold dishes or pans. Use placemats, trivits and coasters.

[Scott Holmes]

Sorry for the confusion...

1/2 pint varnish; 1/2 pint MS to make a wiping varnish.

I tell people to apply wiping varnish the same way a kid wipes the table at the fast food joint. Wipe it on so it's damp and leave it alone. It will dry to the touch in 45 mins to an hour, 2 more same way. Then leave it overnight, light sand if needed, and 3 coats same MO.

3 wipe-on coats is about the same build as one properly apply brush on coat.

Yes, I would use Waterlox or ehlens RH varnish.

[Matt Roth]

I'm having an easier time finding the Waterlox product line; that's probably what I'll use.

Waterlox's website has several products that look similar. Which one would work best for this application? Thanks!

Matt

[Howard Acheson]

The Original Gloss or the Original Satin.