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Thread: Medium dark finish for hard maple?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    NE Connecticut
    Posts
    695

    Medium dark finish for hard maple?

    I am in the process of building a couple of pieces of hard maple furniture. Both will include some maple ply as they are relatively large case pieces. I would like them to be darkened to something like cherry, or perhaps a bit darker. There won't be any curl/birdseye that I want to accentuate.

    From reading here in the finishing forum, it seems like dye is the way to go. I've seen many recommendations for transtint. Any reason not to go that route? If not, what should I dissolve it in?

    I'm leaning toward oil-base poly as the finish under the assumption that this will further warm the color and offer good protection. Both pieces are daily use items. Could I use the dye directly in the finish? As I said, I'm not trying to pop any figure and maple doesn't have much grain anyway.

    Assuming dye and poly, do I need/want to put anything in between, like oil or shellac?

    Any and all thoughts welcome.

    Thanks.


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Tomball, TX (30 miles NNW Houston)
    Posts
    2,747
    TransTint dyes are water or alcohol soluable. Not oil soluable, so it should not go in your poly (it can if you desolve it first in acetone) but I don't recommend that.

    I still don't like poly on furniture (it's for floors) but that is your choice.

    Using the TT in water is easier for a beginner; but it raises the grain. When used in DNA it is NGR but a bit more difficult to get an even coat (learning curve) DNA is faster drying.

    Multiple coats will make it darker so sneak up on the color you want.

    Sealing it is not a must, but is a good idea. I use shellac to seal it and to build a hard transpart sealcoat that is color fast, and will pop the grain. Super Blond is almost colorless garnet is the darkest. It can add depth to you color.

    A phenolic resin varnish will add more color than urethane resin varnish and is clearer.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    NE Connecticut
    Posts
    695
    Thanks, Scott.

    I think I've decided to go with water-soluble dye for initial coloring. Regarding the shellac: before dye or after? If I use it after, wouldn't it allow me to use an oil-based finish? Finally, any recommendations for a phenolic resin varnish?

    Thanks again.


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