Gluing a mirror to Tempered masonite - DIY problems?

[Tom Overthere]

What glue/adhesive should I use? Also, am I likely to experience problems due to this particular substrate expanding/contracting - while the mirror does not?

I want to create a mirrored cabinet door that appears "frameless", so the mirror "floats" within the cabinet opening.

I'd like to glue the back of the mirrored glass to a hidden frame behind it.
Not sure what adhesive is best... Typical construction adhesive?

The frame consists of 1/4" tempered Masonite with a half-lapped 3/4" plywood armature (see image below).
I think it would be best to apply adhesive to the rough side of the Masonite.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Tom,
Try this site:

http://www.thistothat.com/

[Tom Overthere]

Wow. Thanks, Ken. What a neat little site.

They recommend GE Slicone II.

Anybody know of a reason NOT to use that? I'm wondering if it will affect the mirroring on the back of the glass. One way to find out, though I wonder about long term affect...

Anybody see potential problems with a tempered masonite substrate MOVING in relation to the glass? The silicone ought to provide some measure of flexibility, I guess...

[Todd Carpenter]

Hi Tom,

I don't know if the Silicone would affect the mirror backing or not, but it's definitely a concern. If look, some construction adhesives are okay to use with mirrors just check the label.

As for the masonite, it will move but construction adhesive stays flexible as would the silicone. If you're putting the cabinet in a moist environment, I'd opt for 1/4" plywood over the masonite. Remember old masonite siding - anytime that stuff got slightly damp, it warped all over the place - you usually had to paint it every year to keep that from happening.

HTH
Todd

["Tim Quinn"]

http://www.liquidnails.com/products/...p?productId=39

http://www.glazerschoice.com/faq.phtml

[Tom Overthere]

Thanks for your comments, Todd.

Tim: Man! Talk about "Hitting the (Liquid)nail on the head!" Those two links are spot on. Thanks very much. Looks like I need to get a bit more familiar with Google...(blush).

[glenn bradley]

+1 on silicone. For smooth flat surfaces, a good surface of silicone between has a terrific grip. I have secured 15" speakers into rabbeted baffles and they have been in place for 30 years without incident and that surface area is quite a bit smaller than I imagine you will have.

[Tom Overthere]

+1 on silicone. For smooth flat surfaces, a good surface of silicone between has a terrific grip.

So would you adhere to the smooth side or the rough side of 1/4" tempered masonite? And to clarify, per your comments below, my application involves adhering the faces, 14" x 42"

I have secured 15" speakers into rabbeted baffles and they have been in place for 30 years without incident and that surface area is quite a bit smaller than I imagine you will have.

Did you use silicone to secure an actual speaker (a moving diaphram in a metal frame) to a wooden enclosure? Or did you use silicone to secure a speaker cabinet into a larger, rabbeted wooden framework? Man, has silicone really been available for 30 years? Tempus fugit...


BTW, izdat R. Crumb's "Mr Natural" in your avatar? YOW!

[glenn bradley]

So would you adhere to the smooth side or the rough side of 1/4" tempered masonite? And to clarify, per your comments below, my application involves adhering the faces, 14" x 42"


Did you use silicone to secure an actual speaker (a moving diaphram in a metal frame) to a wooden enclosure? Or did you use silicone to secure a speaker cabinet into a larger, rabbeted wooden framework? Man, has silicone really been available for 30 years? Tempus fugit...


BTW, izdat R. Crumb's "Mr Natural" in your avatar? YOW!

First and most importantly. Yowza! Dats Mr. N.

Thirdly, it was an actual 18 pound woofer with the outer ring of the basket frame setting down into a bead of silicone that was laid around the rabbet. Lay the speaker cabinet on its back, drop in the speaker and wait till morning. Years later, still strong and tight.

The rough side of your hardboard would probably be OK if it were sealed with shellac or poly or something. I would expect reduced strength if silicone was laid directly on the fuzzy side of non-service tempered Masonite/hardboard.

The killer grip seems to come from two clean smooth surfaces with a thin film of the silicone spread between them. That doesn't mean it won't work; I would just expect a less reliable grip on that fuzzy surface. Sealed and de-fuzzed a bit would probably be fine.

[Tom Overthere]

Thanks, Glenn.

I think I'll flip the masonite over and glue to the smooth side, though not being a silicone afficionado, that's counter-intuitive to me. I figured a rough surface would always provide more "grip" - but the "fuzz" potentially "shedding" and releasing the silicone is an important consideration.

Glenn, HERE'S A LINK to something I own. I think yer gonna diggit.

Keep on Truckin'
Tom