DP run out

[Richard Elliott]

I have a one year old Ridgid DP1550. Started having problems with it and tonight I purchased a dial indicator and checked the runout. If I turn the spindel from the top pully by hand, there is .02 run out on the chuck. Outstanding for the money if you ask me. But with the chuck on or off, if I grab the spindle at the chuck or base and turn it, it reads .15 runout. There is an adjustment on the left of the spindle housing for this but it's worthless as it is either too lose or too tight. Is this a case of the bearings being the problem ? The spndle seems very straight, but the whole thing is loose. I know there is no lateral stress on the spindle, but still that's got to be way too much play?

Thanks in advance for the feedback.

[Rich Neighbarger]

If I'm understanding you correctly the play that you refer is because the hole through the casting is slightly too large for the size of the quill. Keep in mind there must be a bit of room otherwise the quill wouldn't move. This is the advantage of having the split casting such as in the SC press.

The quill is not guided by bearings and the adjustment on the side, as you noted, is not much help. You can try replacing this with a nylon bolt to see if that helps.

I have a Jet JDP-17MF which had the same issue. I resolved it by tapping a 3/8" nylon bolt through the front of the casting, behind the power switch. It's completely stealth and provides quick adjustment and cleaned up some of the slop I had in the gear mesh.

[Richard Elliott]

Thanks Rich.
I removed the set screw and was surprised to see a boxed end on it?
Looking into the casting, I see a keyway slot on the quill tube. It looks like the box end of the set screw is supposed to ride in the keyway slot of the quill tube. I’m a bit confused however since, if it were actually riding in the keyway slot, you would not be able to turn/rotate it. Additionally, you would need to have the set screw inserted a good ways first, and then insert the tube aligned with it in the keyway. Weird stuff?

I called Ridgid, a pleasant enough experience, and was told it is in fact supposed to ride in the keyway and to return it for service since the effort to fix it requires a considerable amount of dismantling.

I think I will instead replace it with a nylon nut as suggested, perhaps with a tapered end, or turn a round end on the existing screw that will fit into the slot. I’m still not convinced Ridgid support is correct, however but don’t know how to validate what they are saying short of going to the store and seeing how the floor model is set up. Thanks again for the excellent idea.

More when I have it….