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Thread: buffing antique oil

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Sioux Falls, SD
    Posts
    282

    buffing antique oil

    I know there are some using antique oil for a finish and buffing. My question is do you use any componds or just a dry buffing wheel? I just did a walnut bowl and i think i am going to like AO for a finish the way it is starting to look. Thanks, Wally

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Ivy, VA
    Posts
    1,023
    Just wait longer than you think you need to wait for it to cure. I use AO almost exclusively, and don't buff with wheels, just 3M ultrafine floss pads, and get pretty good results with it. I use less coats for a satin finish, more for gloss. I worry that buffing a finish that isn't sufficiently thick will make it glossy, but not wear well in the long run, but I don't have any longterm results to back up my suspicions. I've heard many people talk about the finish going very "gummy" when they buffed after 24-48 hrs instead of waiting much longer. They had to sand down and start again. IME it cures much faster at higher temps.
    Last edited by Nathan Hawkes; 09-04-2009 at 2:06 PM.

  3. #3
    I use Don Pencil's 3 wheel system to buff MinWax Antique Oil all time.
    Doesn't get gummy or glossy. Just beautiful. People always want to touch the finish.

    I do seal it first with Myland's cellulose sealer, resand with 400, usually one coat of AO, buff later the same day or the next day. Love it.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    West Bend, WI
    Posts
    97
    I buff oil finishes after the piece has cured for a week. I use the tripoli compound and white diamond, then Ren. wax. The carnuba wax will get spots if any water gets on the piece. Don't buff walnut or other dark woods with white diamond, you'll get white spots in the grain that is extremely hard to get out.
    "The secret to creativity is knowing how to hide your sources"
    Albert Einstein

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lewiston, Idaho
    Posts
    28,535
    I use the Beal buffing system. I buff usually a day or two after the last coat is applied. Usually only two coats maximum are needed. Sometimes one coat is enough. It depends on the wood being finished.

    I know others more skilled than I like Bernie Weishapl waits a week for the last coat to dry IIRC.
    Last edited by Ken Fitzgerald; 09-05-2009 at 9:45 AM.
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Kapolei Hawaii
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    3,236
    I buff AO. BUT, I put on like 5 coats minimum. Sand between every other coat. Takes a week to finish a bowl. I use just Renissance (I can never remember how to spell that wax. Maybe I should use carnuba, since I can spell that) wax. I like it better than the carnuba. Although the carnuba works well too. The Renissance wax is just way faster. Apply and buff. No need to load up the wheel. I let the AO dry for 3 days, wet sand with Micro Mesh then buff.

    I would guess, that if you put only 1 or 2 coats, and buff with the tripoli, WD and then wax, you'll get satisfactory results too.

  7. #7
    The thing I've found with Antique Oil, or any other oil finish for that matter, is that the secret is wiping off the excess oil before it gets sticky enough to create lines or anything than needs buffed out. I think AO has some kind of dryer that makes it get tacky pretty quick, at least here in my 95 degree, 15% humidity environment. So you need to wipe it on, give it just a minute or two, and then wipe it off. If you do that you for a few coats you can then just give it a few days to cure, rub a little of your favorite wax on it and give it a light buffing and it gives a nice luster.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Goodland, Kansas
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    22,605
    I use Antique Oil a lot. I generally like to put three coats on waiting 24 hrs between coats and I wait a week to cure before I buff. As was mentioned don't buff with white diamond on woods like walnut or any open grained wood especially dark wood. It will get into the pores and the little white spots all over your turning is extremely hard to remove if possible at all. I use Tripoli, white diamond and then Ren wax on closed pores woods such as cherry and maple. I don't use carnuba wax because finger prints will show or if water gets on it, it will show water spots. I use Renaissance Wax on my turnings. Put it on let it sit for a minute then buff with the wax wheel. I would not buff Ren wax with a wheel that has been used for carnuba wax. One other thing I forgot to mention was when buffing don't buff in one place long. Keep the piece moving as it will create heat and it will turn gummy in that spot. Some people like glossy, some like semi-gloss and some like a satin finish. That is pretty much up to you and what you like or the look you want. In my neck of the woods glossy out sells the others about 8 to 1. So most of my turnings have the glossy look. Just my 2 cents.
    Bernie

    Never put off until tomorrow what you can do the day after tomorrow.

    To succeed in life, you need three things: a wishbone, a backbone and a funnybone.



  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Spring Lake, MI
    Posts
    76
    I do what Jon does with all oil/varnish type finishes.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Sioux Falls, SD
    Posts
    282
    Thanks for all the replies on buffing AO finish, i have three coats on now so will do one more and let it set for awhile then do as most suggested.
    Wally

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