Best Way to Secure A Wood Joint

[Steve Goetz]

I'm needing some ideas. I'm in the process of finishing my basement and and building a soffit around the truck duct for the HVAC system. I'm wanting to butt joint the 2x4 cross pieces into the perpendicular wall so I can maximize my headroom. If that doesn't make sense, then I'm trying to butt joint two perpendicular 2x4's together. What is the best way to secure this joint? It's only going to be holding up a 2' wide piece of drywall, but I don't want it to fall down. Would a biscuit jointer work well? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Steve

[Matt Evans]

So, in an L shape? If that is the case, you just nail it with commons.

If you are talking about end to end, I would use a scab on the inside.

[Steve Goetz]

It's more like a "T" than an "L". I didn't think that commons toe nailed into the boards would hold enough to support the drywall.

Steve

[Matt Evans]

Should be, but I might have missed what you're doing. . . .

This sketch look about right?

[Cody Colston]

I would simply toenail it as suggested but if you are concerned about strength, use 2"x4" joist hangers.

[Dave Wagner]

If it's the short sides together laying flat at a 90 degree, I have used the pocket screws with some wood glue.

[bill mullin]

Hi Steve.
Here is how a bulkhead is typically built to cover HVAC and plumbing.

Build a "ladder" for the bottom as shown using 2x2's and 2x4's on the floor.
Nail a 2x2 across the joists as shown at A. Nail the plywood "face" to the 2x2.
Level from the bottom of the plywood over to the wall, chalk a line across the studs. Nail the back of the ladder to the studs, above the line.
Nail thru the ply into the ladder at the front.

If you're doing this by yourself, just make the "ladder" sections short enough to handle, say 8', and use partially driven nails on the chalkline to hold them up til you get it nailed.

[Steve Goetz]

Thanks Bill, thats just what I was looking for.

Steve