Any Stanley 45 users/collectors?

[Steve Beadle]

Seriously, this is not a gloat. Maybe a pre-gloat, but I don't really know enough about what I just bought! On Labor Day weekend, while browsing through an odds-and-ends used hardware shop at the Oregon coast, I came across a Stanley 45 in pretty good condition and nearly complete--just missing 2 cutters out of 23. I have tried to search the Neanderthal threads for anything about the Stanley 45 combination plane, but didn't find much mention of it.
So I'm wondering if any of my fellow Creekers have anything to share about the Stanley 45, whether they have ever used one much, and what they think. I have ordered a booklet about the plane, and the booklet supposedly includes a copy of the original manual. The little manual that was with the plane when I bought it has all but disintegrated, unfortunately.
The rosewood parts (at least I am assuming it's rosewood) all appear to be in very good shape. No knicks, dents, chips or cracks. They do appear to be dirty, however. How should these parts be cleaned? There are a couple small rusty spots on the guides, where the nickel plating has worn away. All the screws are in working order. What solvent would be good for performing a general cleanup of the metal parts?
Finally, I am also interested in actually using the plane to make beads, coves, rabbets, grooves, dadoes, tongue-and-groove joints, etc. Any advice given will be appreciated. Or maybe your opinion will be that using a 45 just isn't worth the trouble!

[Sal Morgani]

Years ago, I bought a complete Stanley 45. I began to read about the Stanley 45 and how hard it was to use and how complicated to set it up, that I was better off using old wooden moulders. I went ahead and used it despite all the negative feed back. It was the best thing I ever did. Once you get use to it, it very simple to set up and use. Once it's set, it stays set. Unlike woodies, there is no little tap here, little tap there, every where a tap, tap. That is not to say, I don't use hollows and rounds, they have there place, as well. I do a lot of moulding for period furniture with my Stanley 45. it is great for reeding, rabbets and dadoes.
For metal parts clean up, I would use kerosene.
I hope you enjoy using your 45, I know I do.
Sal Morgani

[Roger Nixon]

I agree with Sal. The #45 has some undeserved bad press. That said, it is at is best in softer, straight grained woods. I use mine mostly for plowing grooves and it is good for rabbets along the grain. For cross grain rabbets and dadoes, I prefer a plane with a skewed blade.

[Steve Beadle]

Just today I received in the mail the booklet on Stanley combination planes, and already a couple of questions have been answered. I look forward to honing the blades and setting up for a few trial cuts. You (Sal, that is) mentioned making reeding cuts, which must mean that you have some of the 'extra' blades, I think. I have 21 cutters--mostly coves and beads, matching and straight rabbeting/dadoing cutters. But I have seen sets of the 'extras' on Ebay. Thanks for your encouragement about using the 45!

[Bob Smalser]

I have both a 45 and a 50 I use to cut beads and flutes exclusively....the 50 being a little simpler and tougher at it.

I find the poormouthing (of this plane and others) generally comes from collectors who do just enuf woodworking to "talk the talk". Some of the more popular Stanley sites come to mind.

Combo planes by necessity of design have poor support in front of the throat. That means you need absolutely perfect, straightgrained molding stock...preferably of a species that cuts crisply...Honduras Mahogany being one of the best.

Given the stock they were designed for, they work as advertised. Use them on walnut that's full of pin knots, and if you don't really understand planes and/or wood....you may poormouth the tool.

[harry strasil]

The early 45's had only 19 blades. and as they changed the 45 in the following years, more blades were added until they peaked at 23 standard blades. I have series 2, 8, 12 and another one I can't remember. I have a 50 and series 1 55 too. at times I have a different blade in all of them so I don't have to keep changing blades.
There is an excellent article in the stanley plane book by Dave Heckel on identifing the different 45 series. and Dave has replacement parts at a reasonable cost, he also has reprints of the manuals that came with the different series



irnsrgn

[Steve Beadle]

Thanks for the tip, Harry. I'll have to check out that resource. My 45 must be one of the later models, as I have an indication that there are supposed to be 23 cutters. I have only 21 of them. I'm missing the slitter and the 1/8" straight cutter. What should I use to clean the rosewood parts, do you think?

[Sal Morgani]

Steve,
I have the 45 which uses the cutters with the notch in them. The 55 reeding cutter (which also has a notch) will fit the 45. If you go to tool swaps you can pick up a lot of loose cutters.

[Wendell Wilkerson]

There is an excellent article in the stanley plane book by Dave Heckel on identifing the different 45 series. and Dave has replacement parts at a reasonable cost, he also has reprints of the manuals that came with the different series

Do you have contact information for Dave? Does he have a website? I don't need anything right now but I like to collect resources in case I need something in the future.

Thanks,
Wendell

[Leif Hanson]

Thanks for the tip, Harry. I'll have to check out that resource. My 45 must be one of the later models, as I have an indication that there are supposed to be 23 cutters. I have only 21 of them. I'm missing the slitter and the 1/8" straight cutter. What should I use to clean the rosewood parts, do you think?

I used electrolysis to clean the rust off of mine when I first got it, just hung it in a bucket so the wood was above the water. Then proceeded with mineral spirits and steel wool to get the rest. I wasn't worried about saving the nickel plating on mine, there wasn't enough left to worry about anyway.

I had to turn a new knob for mine, I used some scrap padauk I had on hand, then BLO and shellac to finish it. Gave the handle a bit of finish at the same time. You can use kerosene, mineral spirits, alcohol, or any combination thereof to clean the rosewood. Avoid using a harsh abrasive - a fine scotchbrite pad would probably work best.

You won't miss the slitting cutter, or the 1/8" cutter for that matter - I've never needed either. But, if you want, I think the St. James Bay Tool Company makes reproductions. You'll pay probably around $20 to $25 for a slitting cutter on ebay, so theirs is a pretty fair deal. I would use it for a while before I got worried about "completing the set" to see if you really need it.

I've found that a 45 is a very useful tool. It's not so hot at cross-grain work, but serviceable after a fashion IMO. It's absolutely excellent at beads, grooves, and rabbets, though. It does much better in straight grained woods, and has a little difficulty in wavy grain, leaving a bit of tear out. Sometimes I'll use the knickers in it while cutting along the grain to reduce this. Mine is an older one - if there was one thing I could change it would be to get a newer version that has the adjustable fence - that would be very handy at times.

There are a few methods for sharpening the cutters - If you can get by with just flattening the back, it's the easiest way. If you need to re-do the bevel on it, one of the more successful is to use drill rod with sandpaper wrapped around it; you cut a bead (if you have a cutter) on some wood and use paste on it; sandpaper wrapped around a dowel is another way...

If you need to reshape a curved iron, you can use a metal cut-off wheel in a grinder, and use a photocopy of an original to redo the shape. If you need new cutters for it, it isn't that hard to make your own from O1 tool steel with a few basic tools.

HTH

Leif

[Steve Beadle]

You won't miss the slitting cutter, or the 1/8" cutter for that matter - I've never needed either. ...... I would use it for a while before I got worried about "completing the set" to see if you really need it.

There are a few methods for sharpening the cutters - If you can get by with just flattening the back, it's the easiest way. If you need to re-do the bevel on it, one of the more successful is to use drill rod with sandpaper wrapped around it; you cut a bead (if you have a cutter) on some wood and use paste on it; sandpaper wrapped around a dowel is another way...

Leif

Once I knew what the slitting cutter was used for, I realized I could probably get along without it--you're right. The 1/8" cutter's work could probably be done in other ways, too, including power tool options (but we won't go there!).
As for sharpening, most of my cutters just need a little honing. I think I could use a slip stone on the bead cutters. Not sure if I understood what you were talking about when referring to "us(ing) paste on it." Are you talking about putting diamond paste on the wood, then honing the cutter on the wood form?
Anyway, thanks for your helpful comments!

[Leif Hanson]

Not sure if I understood what you were talking about when referring to "us(ing) paste on it." Are you talking about putting diamond paste on the wood, then honing the cutter on the wood form?

Yup - sorry for not being clear... a honing compound of some sort, be it diamond paste or what ever you normally use.

[harry strasil]

wendell, dave can be reached at Heckel@advant.net







2