While we're Resawing-Single Point or Fence

[Dan Mitchell]

Your cut with a single point fence is only as good as you can follow the line you draw on the wood. Personally, I haven't used that approach since I learned how to align my bandsaw - now I routinely cut veneers against a tall, flat fence.

Same here, with the addition that I find a magnetic feather board very helpful for these cuts.

Dan

[Ken Werner]

Thanks Jason!

[glenn bradley]

I don't adjust for drift. I align my saw to cut straight and just cut. For that rare piece that is too tough for my saw to impose it's will on (really unruly grain) I use a knife-like fence.

[Myk Rian]

I tried a single point once and scrapped the idea. A fence with a featherboard works best for me.

[Larry Lukens]

Flat fence (Kreg) and featherboard. On my Delta 14-inch, there is no drift with this setup. I use the Highland Woodworking "Wood Slicer."

I've cut white oak veneer and resawed 6-inch white oak with no problem.

[John Thompson]

I don't adjust for drift. I align my saw to cut straight and just cut. For that rare piece that is too tough for my saw to impose it's will on (really unruly grain) I use a knife-like fence.

That is a point fence you linked, Glenn. They can be many shapes and sizes but all work off the principle of the leading point is used for support on the cut and you guide the stock. I used one for years on a smaller saw on certain cuts and still do for certain cuts as rough rips on my largest BS on very thick stock.

Regards...