If using a router table, is there any point in purchasing and using a rabbeting bit? Or will a regular straight bit do the job just fine?
I would think the straight bit should work well, but I wanted to double check.
If using a router table, is there any point in purchasing and using a rabbeting bit? Or will a regular straight bit do the job just fine?
I would think the straight bit should work well, but I wanted to double check.
Having the bearing makes set up much easier, and it is more forgiving if the fence isn't perfectly aligned or there is a gap. Additionally, a typical rabbeting bit has a larger diameter than a straight bit, making for smoother rabbets.
a rabbet bit will work within a few inches of the panel edge and must be positioned on the edge of the stock whereas a straight bit, with a guide, can run a rabbet anywhere across the field of the panel. the straight bit is also capable of making a stopped dado much easier than a dado bit.
for use on a table i would buy the straight bit because of the many other profiles that it is capable of producing.
S.M.Titmas.
"...I had field experience, a vocabulary and a criminal mind, I was a danger to myself and others."
-Anthony Bourdain
Think about putting a rabbet on a curve or around the inside of a box . . . hmmmmmm.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Ahem ... yeah - what Glenn said. We were typing at the same time :P :P :P
Jason Beam
Sacramento, CA
beamerweb.com
As Glenn pointed out, sometimes you have to cut a rebate (rabbet) from the inside. It would be difficult without a bearing. Two large pieces of glass went into this.
So, other than a few very specific exceptions, it's as I suspected - and a straight bit is a perfectly suitable replacement, when used on a router table.
Thanks, everyone!
Well, not exactly IME. The very few exceptions idea really depends on what you are making. Assuming that the router table is the best way to do every thing would be a mistake. For instance trying to maneuver sides for a tall cabinet with rabbited backs can get a little dicey. And trying to make a rabbit deeper than the bit in questions diameter can leave little steps which is annoying. Further most rabbit bits have a strong shear angle which helps to control tear out, so they have that advantage over straight bits but not spiral carbide. And as noted earlier trying to set a straight bit to a specific depth of cut without the use of a bearing can be quite challenging. Oh, and that curved work issue; trying to do rabbits in curved work without a bearing is nearly impossible.
S.M.Titmas.
"...I had field experience, a vocabulary and a criminal mind, I was a danger to myself and others."
-Anthony Bourdain
Rebate, rabbet, schmabbet. Doesn't matter. Use the straight bit. I have several rabbeting bits. Rarely use them, if I ever have at all.
Never, under any circumstances, consume a laxative and sleeping pill, on the same night
You can use a straight bit to make rabbets, but router bits don't cost that much and I like the security of the bearing when making certain cuts. For a "captured" cut, like a dado, I often use a template and a bit with a top bearing (I do this with a hand held router, not on a table).
Mike
Last edited by Mike Henderson; 09-17-2009 at 3:16 PM.
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