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Thread: uneven cut with a jig saw

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Richardson, tx
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    uneven cut with a jig saw

    I have a bosch 1590 EVS jig saw that I have been using to try to cut a handle for a plough plane. I mark the piece of wood and then I have to make two cuts that are straight and only 2" long at the most. I have tried it with the 1&1/4 wood for the handle and some 3/4 just for trial.
    I have no problem cutting straight but the top of the cut and the bottom of the cut are not in the same plane. The bottom of the cut is set back from the top by about 1/16 so that when you hold the piece up and look at the cut from the edge of the board one side is higher than the other.
    I have checked the setting of the blade and it is set at 0 and using a square the blade is straight. I have tried about 5 of the cuts and they all come out the same. I do not have a band saw so I can't cut them on one. I talked to bosch and they suggested a stiffer blade which I got but still have the same problem. I am cutting hard wood for the handle but have cut soft pine on the 3/4 wood.
    James

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Northwestern Connecticut
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    7,149
    The only thing I can think of is make sure your saws foot is locked into the 90 degree detent, make sure the blade is in fact at 90 degrees with the foot in the detent, play with the reciprocation settings to see what works best and move forward at a deliberate pace verging on slow letting the blade do the work. Don't push it. Both Bosch and Festool make a variety of different blades with different performance characteristics, so perhaps try a few different ones to see if one will perform better for your application?

  3. #3
    Sounds like blade lean, which can happen when the stock is too thick and the blade has to work hard.

    The Bosch blades from last year are supposed to be a cut above all others...T308B

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Las Vegas, NV
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    James, the same thing happened to me with my Bosch. I was trying to rip some 5/4 white oak, the cut was drifting really bad and the blade was also burning the wood. I guess I was asking way too much from the saw. It ruined the blade BTW. Ended up using my circular saw; probably not something you can use for your specific procedure though.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Roseville, MN
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    349
    are you using the blade guides (the red button on the side of the saw)?

  6. #6
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    Try using the progressor blades. Personally I like the T-234X blades, which will yield a cut equally as smooth and square as a cut made on a TS. This blade has very aggresive looking teeth, but it cuts smooth as silk. I've cut hardwood veneer plywood and also maple with this blade with no burning or tearout.

    However, don't try to cut small radius (under 12") curves with this blade, it cuts straight, but doesn't like curves.

    One of the causes for blade wander is forcing the blade into the wood. Relax and let the saw cut at its own pace and you will get a straight smoother cut. Cutting with a jig saw is much like cutting with a band saw, too many teeth per inch is not a good thing as the sawdust can't get out of the cut on thicker boards.
    Last edited by Lee Schierer; 09-17-2009 at 8:06 AM.
    Lee Schierer
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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Richardson, tx
    Posts
    35

    JIG saw

    Thank all of you for your suggestions. The only thing I haven't tried is the t 234 blade and I also have not adjusted the speed.
    I will go and get the blades and try them.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Richardson, tx
    Posts
    35

    Thank you

    Quote Originally Posted by Lee Schierer View Post
    Try using the progressor blades. Personally I like the T-234X blades, which will yield a cut equally as smooth and square as a cut made on a TS. This blade has very aggresive looking teeth, but it cuts smooth as silk. I've cut hardwood veneer plywood and also maple with this blade with no burning or tearout.

    However, don't try to cut small radius (under 12") curves with this blade, it cuts straight, but doesn't like curves.

    One of the causes for blade wander is forcing the blade into the wood. Relax and let the saw cut at its own pace and you will get a straight smoother cut. Cutting with a jig saw is much like cutting with a band saw, too many teeth per inch is not a good thing as the sawdust can't get out of the cut on thicker boards.
    I got the blades you suggested, slowed the speed down, and made sure the precision control button was pressed and it worked fine. Cut the 1&1/4 oak straight.
    Thanks again for the help.

  9. #9
    The saw blade will twist in the cut.

    This is caused by dull blades or too much pressure pushing it into the cut.

    Also the blades sold for the Bosh and the Festool have almost no set to the teeth so getting a radius cut is something that takes a little patience.

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