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Thread: 1974 Rockwell/Delta 34-338 Contractor's Saw

  1. #1

    1974 Rockwell/Delta 34-338 Contractor's Saw

    Hi, I'm brand new here.

    My Dad bought this saw brand new in '74. I've inherited it and have used it a few times. I'm preparing to rebuild it completely this winter and would like some advice.

    This won't be a restoration ... more of a RestoMod.

    Fence - At the very least I'll add an Accusquare fence. Incra if I win the lottery. The original is trashed.

    Arbor Bearings - The 30 year old bearings will be replaced. Any suggestions here?

    Finish - Paint or Powder Coat?

    Legs - It has the origal flared legs, but the bottoms are bent and in fairly bad shape. Anyone know a source? Should I just make my own straight legs?

    Power switch - The original was replace long ago. I'd like to get a nice switch on the machine now. Any ideas? A router table safety switch perhaps?

    Motor - The current motor is a Craftsman 1HP 110V. I'd like to have something beefier, but it's not a priority right now. I'm still researching sources. I already have a link belt.

    I'll be getting a PALS, dial indicator, etc. to align everything.

    Thanks in advance for any advice you can give.

    Jim in Houston
    Last edited by Jim Fancher; 09-16-2004 at 4:58 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Lancaster, PA
    Posts
    1,363
    Jim,

    First, welcome to the Creek. Good group here.

    I have a 34-400 which I think is similar to yours. I replaced the bearings last year. Purchased them from a local industrial supplier - $15 or $20 I think. The old "freeze the arbor, heat the bearings" trick worked wonders to get the bearings on. I did have trouble getting one of the old ones off though.
    As far as the base goes, I would go ahead and make a closed base (read as "box") for the base versus attempting to retrofit the original. This would allow you to use the space for storage and easily put it on wheels if necessary.
    Also, I'd paint it - I don't think the paint takes enough abuse to warrant the extra effort to powder coat -Just my opinion though. (would also allow you to paint flames on it.)
    For the switch, best bet is a magnetic switch - barring that, a mechanical contact switch (motor starter) would be next. I think you can go with a "light switch" for this motor, but make it a 20A minimum - not the kind that is in the dining room wall. Remember, if you beef up the motor, the switch has to match it in kind. I'm still using the original Rockwell 1hp which does a fine job on all but the biggest cuts - then I slow down.

    Good luck on the restomod, Wes

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    13,005
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Fancher
    Hi, I'm brand new here.
    Welcome, Jim!

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Fancher
    ...more of a RestoMod.
    Restoring to use it is very cool...the best kind of restore IMO. What piece of ww'ing equipment would be happy restored only to be put on a shelf???

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Fancher
    Fence - At the very least I'll add an Accusquare fence. Incra if I win the lottery. The original is trashed.
    Incra is what I have on my Griz1023...I love it. The precision is great but one is slightly limited in ripping capacity and the "neck" of the fence poking out on wide cuts can be annoying at times...just ask my back!

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Fancher
    Arbor Bearings - The 30 year old bearings will be replaced. Any suggestions here?
    Look and see what you have on there...any decent bearing house will have replacements for you...they may even press them in for you. Go for the higher quality bearings for replacement...they'll last even longer.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Fancher
    Finish - Paint or Powder Coat?
    Your choice here. Powder coat will last longer but is probably pricier.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Fancher
    Legs - It has the origal flared legs, but the bottoms are bent and in fairly bad shape. Anyone know a source? Should I just make my own straight legs?
    Try googling for a source. www.owwm.com might have some infor for you, too. Do you plan to put the saw into its own cabinet? I've seen some mags doing this...looks very strong and easy to move around plus I think it dramatically improves the dust collection.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Fancher
    Power switch - The original was replace long ago. I'd like to get a nice switch on the machine now. Any ideas? A router table safety switch perhaps?
    Any magnetic switch capable of handling the motor would be nice. Grizzly is a decent source of these switches.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Fancher
    Motor - The current motor is a Craftsman 1HP 110V. I'd like to have something beefier, but it's not a priority right now. I'm still researching sources. I already have a link belt.
    Leeson and Beldor are good quality brands for motors. 2 or 3 HP should do you fine. I assume this is a 10" saw?

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Fancher
    I'll be getting a PALS, dial indicator, etc. to align everything.
    Here is my little kit for tuning up the various ww'ing machines around the shop:

    (1) Precision straight edge (Starrett brand....google it)
    (2) http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2004/224.cfm see the two items at the bottom: MasterPlate and Superbar

    The above items aren't cheap but they will last a lifetime and will service a fair amount of your ww'ing machinery.

    Good Luck and post pics when you can!
    Crown Molding: cut, cope, cuss, caulk, chill....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  4. #4
    Woohoo! Thanks Wes and Chris. I'm sure I'll be reading over your responses a few times for reference.

    Don't laugh about the flames. I've mentioned it half jokingly to my wife. I'm a bit of an anal-retentive car nut and it would be very much like me to paint it gloss black and flame it.

    http://www.jimfancher.com/ser As you can imagine, everything in my house is well modded. Tim Allen ain't got nuthin' on me.

    The 34-338 is a 10" right tilt table saw. Sorry about not including that.

    The TS will definitely be used. I could buy a nice brand new contractor's saw for what I'll probably put into this restomod, but it won't be the same. There's a history with this one. My Dad would probably shake his head if he knew what I had planned for it.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    37,708
    Welcome, Jim. On the legs, I also recommend you consider building a base with storage, etc. The one that accompanies the WOOD Magazine Idea Shop #5 is nice and also includes router capability to the right. On the motor, don't go over a 2hp motor...your arbor, bearings and mounts are not designed for anything heavier. Frankly, a nice 1.5hp motor is probably the best choice for this machine--anything bigger will also require 240v power. That's not a "problem" but is a consideration. And I applaud your desire to update this fine vintage machine!
    “Never raise your hands to your children, it leaves your groin unprotected.” - Red Buttons

    If you want your spouse to listen and pay strict attention to every word you say -- talk in your sleep...

    Be safety conscious. 80% of people are caused by accidents.

    Equestrian Sports. The most fun you can have with your boots still on...


  6. #6
    I really like the base idea that you guys have mentioned. I've seen it before, but assumed it was for the smaller portable table saws. I'll do some research on the bases.

    I also forgot to mention that I wanted to stay 110V as Jim mentioned. I'll run this motor until it plays out. The funny thing is, it's 22 years old (1982) and is still singing happily. I think with a proper alignment it'll be happy for a couple of years. Then I can splurge on the motor. I'll talk to some motor shops locally and get an idea of what I need to do to clean it up.

    Yep, I'm kinda liking the idea of a nice base for the TS.

  7. #7

    Update 9/29/04

    I stumbled across a New Old Stock fence on Ebay that fits. That'll keep me happy until I can win the lottery and get that Incra.

    Brand new, in the box for $25. Jim's a happy boy.


  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    13,005
    Looks like a good buy, Jim!
    Crown Molding: cut, cope, cuss, caulk, chill....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

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