Large instrument case and veneering

[stew king]

My tuba case experienced a major catastrophe (luckily unoccupied at the time) that will necessitate me rebuilding it. I'd like to not put ugly black clothlike covering back on and would like to veneer it instead.

The top and bottom are (used to be?) basically flat with a conical projection for the bell (looks approximately like this case:
http://www.interstatemusic.com/wcsst.../900002636.jpg )
and will be made of 1/4 birch ply to match old stuff.

The sides of the case (where the hinges and handle are) survived with barely a scratch.

The case is approx 45" long and 28"/22" wide on the ends and my problem concerns the bell projection: First thing to know is that it is non-structural, as the weight is taken with the "circular" section on the end when laying on its side.

The easiest way to make the bell projection would be to build a form and fiberglas/resin a few layers thick, then attach to newly shaped ply top and bottom.

Another way, masonite or bending ply but i'm not sure how to guarantee holding the curve once i attach it to the ply.

Not as easy would be to laminate it out of scrap veneer, ready for the final veneer.

I do not have a veneer press/bag and do not wish to buy one as this project will cost me a mint already, nor do i have the need for yet another project to build one myself from refrig parts, etc.

Now the real questions: Understanding that there is a bit of flex in the case, should i use paper-backed veneer? Which adhesive would be best for veneering to the bell projection? The rest of the case? And the bell projection itself if i should make it from veneer? Or should i make it from fiberglas?

Now for some asthetic questions that i'd love your opinions on too. My initial plan is to use flat-sawn cherry veener (relatively inexpensive) for the top/bottom and either 1/4- or rift-sawn for the side. I could run the grain parallel to the hinge opening or vertical (i.e. from top to bottom). I see some beauty either way. I could use a contrasting color/species for the bell projection. Finally, the finish: the case will be moved from gig to gig so will suffer small scuffs and scratches even though it has some corner projections (think steamer trunk) and occasional edge projections. I was thinking epoxy might be a resistant coating though a bit expensive.

Thanks! Now it's your turn.

[Matt Lau]

I'm not sure that I understand your question.
Is it:
a.) how to structurally fix it?
b.) how to apply/which laminate veneers for esthetics?

For a.)
You could simply use the broken pieces of the old case (assuming that you have them all) as the form for the fiberglass shell. While it'd be ideal to use a vacuum bag, you don't need to. You can simply lay up epoxy soaked fiberglass over your form.

You will have to invest in some good epoxy, as other easily obtained adhesives don't work too well on fiberglass. You should also invest in a good respirator if you value your lungs.

You can take a look at http://www.instructables.com/id/How-...ome-and-a-bam/ for some idea of what I'm talking about.

For b.)
I'm not too sure. First, take care of the major structural fix.
After you're done fixing your case, post up a picture.
More experienced members can help you with this one.

Personally, I forsee veneering a bowl to be very precise work...like building a oud. Best of luck!