Dumb crosscutting question

[Brian Kincaid]

Check out the 'bridge' from eurekazone. it's a circular saw guide set up to make repeated cuts similar to what you would try to do on a sliding table saw if you had the ca(sh)pacity.

I built my own using their rail system and a craigslist table saw fence.

I kept running into cuts like this and was frustrated by the mark, clamp the guide, cut, ...

Brian

[Brian Kent]

I believe I have my answer. My choices are to either:

1) build or purchase an aftermarket sled or slider to use on my existing
cabinet saw

2) use a circular saw and guide

3) buy a slider saw (out of the question given my limited space and
budget)

Unless I've overlooked other solutions, I have my answer. Thanks to all
for your comments.

Scott, what part of the country are you living in? I have a couple of leads on used sliders in Southern California.

Brian Kent

[Stephen Edwards]

I may be able to answer that. If the fence is in the back you have to pull it nearly off the front of the table saw to start cutting wider pieces. In the front, you can have the table from the blade to the front edge of the saw to support the sled. On those really wide pieces, you may be able to make half the cut, then flip the material top to bottom and finish running it and avoid running off the back of the saw.

Thanks Jerome. Makes sense.

[Stephen Edwards]

I believe Jerome has you covered on "why" for the most part. On wide pieces with a standard rear fence sled.. you generally have only 12"-14" (depending on your TS) table support in front of blade. So.. what happens when you have a 22" or even wider piece to cut? You are pulling the sled back off the table to the point you have very little of it on the table.

So.. you either have extreme balance in holding it or you build something to give it additional support which protrudes in front of the saw. With a Fence Forward the cut begins with the forward portion of the sled having 12"-14" table support but.... you are holding the stock DOWN and pushing forward on the fence. No additional support if required and nothing to obstruct you.

Notice I have an extension on the rear of my saw.. The sled runner goes from table to a slot I cut in the extension which allows the rear of sled to go all the way to the rear of saw table. My sled is 22" wide and I hung 10" off the rear to test a cut. Excellent results and with proper support he entire way.

If you are doing only narrow pieces the rear fence works fine. You can do wider if you add support to the front of saw but without it I feel things get a bit squirrely at least and I respest the 5 HP on my saw. You could flip it over as I had been doing on my SCMS to get 28" but.. perfect alignment is not as easy as just flipping it over. More than like there will be a ridge line where the two cuts meet.

With a ridge line you have to take it out if the end grain is exposed as on open end grain table tops as I build often. I have to cut a little proud (long) and take it to my twin screw vise to take the extra off with a block plane. The ability to make ONE precise sever on my forward fence sled up to 30" using my Super General 30* degree side grind blade is a major plus for me as it eliminates the use of the block plane or a guide and a pattern bit to take off 1 mm or so to get a baby butt smooth end grain showing end.

I have never used a sled until this week as the standard type just wouldn't do the widths I handle often. I saw this one in a Blog and the reason I didn't bother with a sled was erased as it does what I need it to do. I use one of my standard Incra gauges on narrower pieces but this has add much versatility to my work when that wide piece shows up and it shows up often at my shop. It saves me time and block plane iron sharpening as end grain is tough stuff.

Regards...

Thanks for the detailed reply. I think I'll make another one with the fence set up like yours. I sure have enjoyed using the simple one that already have. Makes life much easier and dead on 90 every time. I can understand how having the fence on the opposite side of the sled would work better with wider stock.

[scott vroom]

Scott, what part of the country are you living in? I have a couple of leads on used sliders in Southern California.

Brian Kent

Brian, I live in Nor Cal (Mountain View).

[Danny Thompson]

I strongly recommend you use the straight edge (mdf, plywood, a plumbers's level, whatever) and circular saw option.

A 20-in wide board 6 ft long is a lot to handle on a crosscut sled, particularly for an inexperienced woodworker. The hard part, given the weight and length of the board, even with Sarge's setup, with all that friction, is keeping the board from rotating through the cut. The slightest rotation will result in a botched cut and, either, kickback or an instinctive reaction that results in a cut hand.

If you choose to go the crosscut sled route, whatever you do, do not get any assistance from another person during the cut. There is no way that person will push at the same rate as you.

Best of luck.

[John Thompson]

I strongly recommend you use the straight edge (mdf, plywood, a plumbers's level, whatever) and circular saw option.

A 20-in wide board 6 ft long is a lot to handle on a crosscut sled, particularly for an inexperienced woodworker. The hard part, given the weight and length of the board, even with Sarge's setup, with all that friction, is keeping the board from rotating through the cut. The slightest rotation will result in a botched cut and, either, kickback or an instinctive reaction that results in a cut hand.

If you choose to go the crosscut sled route, whatever you do, do not get any assistance from another person during the cut. There is no way that person will push at the same rate as you.

Best of luck.

You make two good points that should be notable. I agree with you on table drag and that must be accounted for. Putting wax on tops is for more than just prevention of rust. A slick extention talbe is better than an un-finished one for the same reason.

And I strongly agree with you on do it without the aid of an assistant. Here's a case of I wouldn't trust my mother to be totally in sync with me. I learned the hard way years ago ripping long stock. I still rip 12' - 14' on occassional rip for hires but.. I have proper extentions front and rear.. crown guard.. and proper support left of blade with fence on right to do support work. Two people simply cannot co-ordinate their actions into one IMO.

Again great points to bring up as you need to be aware of both as I see it.

Regards...

[Stephen Edwards]

Scott, in the event that no one else may have said this already in this thread, I want to tell you that there's no such thing as a "dumb question" when you're asking for advice on how to do something, anything, that you don't know how to do or aren't sure of the safest way to do it. In fact, it's a sign of intelligence, IMO, when someone asks.

After all, that is one of the main benefits of a forum such as SMC.

[Karl Brogger]

Ok, you caught me in the morning, I'm a bit edgy, and a some what of a jerk in the morning.

Sheet stock is just about always square enough 99% of the time. You gotta remember that its something made out of wood, not parts for the space shuttle, an atom smasher, or whatever...

The absolute biggest thing about crosscutting on a table saw, is you have to keep the material moving. Quickly preferably. The biggest mistake I see people making is slowing down for that last little bit, that is the worst point to do so. I've done it this way, every single day, for ten years. I'd definetly preffer to do it on a panel saw, but I don't have the room for one anymore.