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Thread: Cherry bedside table

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    North Tustin, California
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    120

    Smile Cherry bedside table

    Musta forgot to do something to post this yesterday! I completed a solid cherry bedside table a couple of weeks ago. Did a new thing or two - shellac wash before a gel stain for even color, runners inside the table for drawers, WIDE mortise & tenon joinery (which I really enjoy doing now, not the least of which is for the strength of the joint), and those little figure 8 thingys to attach the table top.

    Anyway, I'll be building 'nother one of these for the bedroom set I'm making. Next project tho will be a Mission style table lamp that I'll make from walnut, just to change up the furniture. So far the dresser, platform bed and this table are all cherry.
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  2. #2
    Nice looking table. I like the proportions. The only suggestion I have for your next table is to put the figure 8's on the inside of the base frame. That way they are hidden and don't detract from your fine craftsmanship.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    North Tustin, California
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ben Hatcher View Post
    Nice looking table. I like the proportions. The only suggestion I have for your next table is to put the figure 8's on the inside of the base frame. That way they are hidden and don't detract from your fine craftsmanship.
    I agree. I thought about that as I got towards the end. I might also to with another means of attaching the top. BUT - the figure 8's really don't show - tho we craftsmen know they're there!

  4. #4
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    Very nice table. I would suggest making a poplar frame inside the top and running screws up through that frame into the underside of the top to hold it in place. Elongate the screw holes a bit to allow for seasonal expansion/contraction.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

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  5. #5
    Patrick, you did some nice work on this one!!

    I do something similar to what Lee is talking about. I glue blocks to the aprons, and depending on the piece, I will make some of the holes elongated and some not so I can direct the movement in a particular direction.

    On this type of table, I would probably have the middle screw fixed, and elongate the ones to the front and back to equalize movement. On a piece that was going against the wall, I would probably fix the location of the rear screws and force the movement to the front so the rear components remain flush with each other.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Very nice Patrick... agree with Lee and John on the attach method. You probably won't see them unless you are lying on the floor but.. kind of like cutting DT's by hand, it's a step up the ladder to craftsman-ship hiding them on the inside. But ya done good on the design and build otherwise!
    Sarge..

    Woodworkers' Guild of Georgia
    Laissez Les Bons Temps Rouler

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    North Tustin, California
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    120
    Quote Originally Posted by John Thompson View Post
    But ya done good on the design and build otherwise!
    Thanks John, Actually the design was from a WOOD magazine from earlier this year. I'm more fond of WOODSMITH plans, but this was nice, simple, and complemented two other bedroom pieces I've already done. And I still have to make one more, so I'll try another method for the top attachment. I do always like to adhere to any plans, as they teach me new techniques and expose me to new things, which is always good to try.

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