Clear Poly or Shellac to use with HVLP?

[Tim Plantz]

JUst bought a new toy (HVLP) and would like to use it to spay the inside of some birch drawers with a clear poly or shellac, just to protect them. Anyone have any suggestions for a fairly inexpensive product?
Thanks to all!

[Bill Arnold]

Simple. Shellac. No poly or you'll be smelling it forever to say nothing of it getting in clothing, etc.

Edit: The only shellac I've used is Sealcoat which is de-waxed.

[Ed Gibbons]

I am looking to get a HVLP system. Which one did you get? Are you happy with it?

[Jamie Buxton]

I finish cabinets with an HVLP system (Accuspray). I find that HVLP doesn't work very well into concave spaces, for instance inside a cabinet or inside a drawer. The sprayer puts out so much air that there's a lot of blow-back into my face, and the blow-back carries much of the finish with it. Because of this, I finish cabinets and backs separately, and assemble them afterwards. Same thing for drawers. I finish the drawer bottom separately, and slide it in from the rear, just like a traditional solid-lumber drawer bottom.

[Adam Carl]

I am looking to get a HVLP system. Which one did you get? Are you happy with it?

Ed,

I just got the Earlax 5000. I have only sprayed shellac so far. This is my first time using a spraying system and I found it easy to use and clean. The only negative is it is pretty loud. Not sure if this is common of HVLP systems.

Adam

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Jamie,
You just touched on a big reason high end cabinet makers prefer pre-finished ply for cabinet interiors and drawers. Next time try cutting back your air pressure until you are just atomizing the finish. Then don't aim into the corner but hit each face from a slight angle.
fmr

[Casey Gooding]

Either can be sprayed with great success. However, it it's for drawer interiors, I would only use shellac. Though, honestly I prefer no finish on drawers.

[Phil Phelps]

I finish cabinets with an HVLP system (Accuspray). I find that HVLP doesn't work very well into concave spaces, for instance inside a cabinet or inside a drawer. The sprayer puts out so much air that there's a lot of blow-back into my face, and the blow-back carries much of the finish with it. Because of this, I finish cabinets and backs separately, and assemble them afterwards. Same thing for drawers. I finish the drawer bottom separately, and slide it in from the rear, just like a traditional solid-lumber drawer bottom.

I think you're on to something.

[Jim Kirkpatrick]

Though, honestly I prefer no finish on drawers.

Why is that casey? Curious because I have 15 drawers, no sprayer. I'm looking for a reason not to finish. They are only shop drawers (sysport)

[Bill Arnold]

... I have 15 drawers, no sprayer. I'm looking for a reason not to finish. They are only shop drawers (sysport)

I don't finish any of my shop drawers but I do use shellac on anything going into furniture or anything else inside the house. I leave the bottom out of the drawer and spray the bottom and assembled sides separately.

Edit: I have three gravity-feed HVLP sprayers: a PC PSH1, Husky HDS790 and an HF CP Pro Detail sprayer.

[Tim Plantz]

Ed, I bought the HVLP from Rockler for @ $ 150 I think. I'll let you know how it works after I try it this weekend.

[Howard Acheson]

If you are new to spray finishing, you can get yourself further/faster down the learning curve by purchasing a book by Andy Charron titled "Spray Finishing". It will tell you about equipment and how to set up use your equipment.

At the very least, practice before you spray a real project. Cardboard boxes and water make a good practice point. Spraying inside of box shaped items will show you what "blowback" is. You don't just fill the gun a fire away.

[Casey Gooding]

When I do finish drawers, I only use shellac. Anything else will gas off (seemingly) forever. On most drawers, finish just isn't necessary anyway.