Proper Router table layout?

[Philip Florio]

I'm about to do the layout for the my router table.

Wondering about the proper layout? So of course the plate is dead center. My table is 23 X 32 with a plate that is 8 1/4 X 11 3/4. I'm using two vertical tracks for the fence along with a horizontal dual track. So the question is what should the distance be for the dual track from the center point? This is set 7" from center.

Phil

[sean m. titmas]

what purpose does the dual track serve? is it for guiding a sliding miter gauge or sled? if so, than i would position it as close as possible to the router plate without sacrificing any structural integrity of the wood top. the closer the track is to the collet the more stability it will have. maybe 1.5" from the edge of the plate.

[glenn bradley]

I positioned my miter track approximately the same distance from the router bit as my tablesaw blade is from the tablesaw miter track. This allows me to use featherboards, miter gauge, tenoning and other jigs on both.

[Brian Kent]

I started with the miter I plan to use and put it next to the widest bit I own, and add 1/2".

[Myk Rian]

I did the same as Glenn. My insert is moved to the left since I mounted it on my cabinet.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showpost...93&postcount=6

[Mike Delyster]

Miter Tracks?
I knew I forgot something.

[Vince Shriver]

I'm about to do the layout for the my router table.

Wondering about the proper layout? So of course the plate is dead center. My table is 23 X 32 with a plate that is 8 1/4 X 11 3/4. I'm using two vertical tracks for the fence along with a horizontal dual track. So the question is what should the distance be for the dual track from the center point? This is set 7" from center.

Phil

If you are ever going to use a coping sled that has a miter bar, that would pretty much define its distance from the bit.

[Philip Florio]

Thanks for the help, one final question, why is the plate always centered. Wouldn't it make more sense for the position of the router to be more towards the back?

Phil

[glenn bradley]

My plate is as far back as I could get it and still fit the lift in the dust enclosure ;-) Most often it is probably a beige-thing. You know, doing what will please (or not annoy) the most people. Tables designed for certain fence setups are not centered one direction or the other. I've seen folks drop routers into their workbench tops at one end. You can pretty much do as you please. Woodpecker even lets you pick size, shape, cutout position, and all sorts of things if you want them to make you a custom table for not much more than the pre-fabs.

[Randal Stevenson]

If you are ever going to use a coping sled that has a miter bar, that would pretty much define its distance from the bit.

EDIT: My apologies, I quoted the wrong person. Long day and I am trying to unwind.


Several of the store bought ones are adjustable. Does the original poster have one now? Have any other useful jigs/etc. that they don't want to rebuild?

[Roger Pozzi]

Thanks for the help, one final question, why is the plate always centered. Wouldn't it make more sense for the position of the router to be more towards the back?

Phil

In Bill Hylton's book, he recommends placing the plate closer to the front of the table, which makes a lot of sense to me after I mounted mine in the center.
I find myself reaching too far in most instances of profile edging.
I guess it is like everything though, a matter of opinion.

[Philip Florio]

Kind of makes sense but it seems like the back is just wasted working surface.

Phil

[Philip Florio]

This is with the router plate 5 inches from the back.

[Myk Rian]

You don't want the insert too far back. No room for a fence.

[Tom Esh]

I'd offset it to the back leaving adequate room to back off the fence for bit changes. However for maximum versatility I'd also run the fence tracks all the way to the front so the fence could be used on either side. That way in the event you need extra room between the bit and fence, just flip the fence and work from the back side.